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Old 01-05-2010, 09:02 PM   #7
CSGAS
optomistic ah-so
 
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 544
Re: fatman xmember and stuff??

FYI- stock Mustang II spindles are forged, while nearly all dropped MII spindles and other factory spindles like our trucks are cast with beefed up everything to restore the strength inherent in a forging.

My one attempt at using a Fatman front suspension, in a 54 Plymouth wagon, led to frustration because I knew what height I wanted it to sit at and Fatman's kit would have resulted in 2" more drop than I wanted. They futzed around for 6 or 10 months (depending on your point of view of the process) before revealing they couldn't make a front end like I wanted. Knowing the ins and outs of fabrication, I wasn't mad...I just dived in to "fix" it. My mentor actually did the work of putting in a stock (sheetmetal) crossmember and that revealed to me what the problem was--Fatman focuses on building their crossmembers and kits from tube and aftermarket components for very practical reasons. Their kits are engineered to work as assembled. The tube approach simply interfered with too many existing structures in the 54 Mopars, while the sheetmetal crossmember worked with them.

Now that brings up a different aspect of your kit. It was engineered to work perfectly with those drop spindles. If you change to standard spindles when you get back to that project, check with Fatman to find out what else you'll have to change (crossmember mounting angle, brake hoses; heck the list could include everything that bolts on, or nothing at all)

The 10.5" discs mentioned are usually Granada rotors, redrilled if needed to Chevy passenger car bolt pattern or some kits use early A-Body or even later G-body systems adapted to the MII spindles. Racers often use Pinto or MII spindles (factory forged type) with a 5 x 5" hub and any conceivable size rotor and caliper adapter--IMSA actually requires this setup in some series. Other setups can be based on A-Body or G-Body spindles and similar hub/brake combos. All end up with fabricated A-Arms. I can't claim to know all the details but the A-Body is most preferred, then MII, then G-body because the G's bend too easily when a wall is hit.

They like the truck ball joints, but not the truck spindles. Also, the inner mounting setup is usually patterned after the A-Body's (or similar G-Bodies) rather than the MII or truck setup.

So there's all the ideals and "I wanna be just like a racer" info. For more details, Speedway Motors site and catalog can reveal a lot (even if you make your final purchase somewhere else, the techies will often help point you in the right direction). Truck use is not the same as race use of course, but since the race parts in this case are already compromised by being street-based instead of purpose manufactured, it's hard to discount the research the racers did.
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1970 C-10 lwb Fleetside. Originally 350 2-bbl 3-on-the-tree, m/b, m/w, m/s no a/c. Currently running on a '76 Camaro 305.
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