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James McClure · 03-22-2010, 10:38 AM

Cookie. Please don't take this the wrong way, I mean no insult if I'm right. Where are the bleeder screws on the calipers? Do they face up or down? If they are facing down you have the calipers on the wrong side. I have seen guys do this quite a few times over the years. You could bleed them this way for days and not get the air out. If they are correct (bleeders pointing up), open all the bleeders and leave them that way and wait for them to drip on thier own. It helps to leave the cap off the master, especially if its an aluminum master. After they drip close them up. Get a piece of vac hose that will fit over the bleeder and a coke bottle half full of brake fluid. Open right rear bleeder, put hose on bleeder and wait for a drip then put the hose in the bottle and watch air bubble out of the hose. When you see that, go pump the brakes a little bit. Now close the bleeder and go to left rear, then right front, then left front. This will force air out and prevent any from getting back in when you release the pedal. I have to work alone and have done this hundreds of times. Asside from getting the job done, theres no mess and you don't loose any fluid. You can also monitor how much fluid you using so the master won't go dry on you. If you have any questions call me at 518-581-1622 and I'll walk you thru it. 33 years working for GM and most of that on our trucks. Jim

03-22-2010, 10:38 AM	#3
James McClure One shot, one kill. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saratoga Springs NY Posts: 859	Re: hydro brakes help ! Cookie. Please don't take this the wrong way, I mean no insult if I'm right. Where are the bleeder screws on the calipers? Do they face up or down? If they are facing down you have the calipers on the wrong side. I have seen guys do this quite a few times over the years. You could bleed them this way for days and not get the air out. If they are correct (bleeders pointing up), open all the bleeders and leave them that way and wait for them to drip on thier own. It helps to leave the cap off the master, especially if its an aluminum master. After they drip close them up. Get a piece of vac hose that will fit over the bleeder and a coke bottle half full of brake fluid. Open right rear bleeder, put hose on bleeder and wait for a drip then put the hose in the bottle and watch air bubble out of the hose. When you see that, go pump the brakes a little bit. Now close the bleeder and go to left rear, then right front, then left front. This will force air out and prevent any from getting back in when you release the pedal. I have to work alone and have done this hundreds of times. Asside from getting the job done, theres no mess and you don't loose any fluid. You can also monitor how much fluid you using so the master won't go dry on you. If you have any questions call me at 518-581-1622 and I'll walk you thru it. 33 years working for GM and most of that on our trucks. Jim __________________ 1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shotJim or Paladin whichever you choose.