Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy0
Method #2 that rjs posted is the best most accurate way to adjust the valves on any engine regardless of make. It works on any valvetrain setup. Theres not a need for a doing a running engine adjustment. If the valves are adjusted properly they wont need a running adjustment.
|
DITTO! you can set preload on the lifters on the engine stand this way and never look back! Unless something wears unexpectedly, the hydraulic lifter will take care of it.
Here's the same thing said with a few more details
http://www.small-block-chevy.com/cb_6.htm
One suggestion, with a poly lock you have it made. Loosen the inside allen head lock, set the lifter on the heal of the lobe as described above and run the adjusting nut down with your FINGERS to zero lash. This works ideal because you can't go past zero lash with your fingers. Then add your 1/4 or 1/3 turn with a wrench. Another suggestion,,, don't get stupid with the inside allen head lock. Over tightening the lock is just good reason to break a rocker stud. It doesn't need anything more than a good T-handle allen wrench will supply. Too many guys want to use the wrench and JAM the crap out of the lock with a twist of the adjusting nut. That puts a big stress on the rocker stud at the base of the lock nut. If you tighten it that way, are putting a lot of stress on the studs with stiff springs,,,, a broken rocker surd should be expected. I'm not saying they can be left 'loose',,, but just don't get crazy with the lock