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**COBALT** · 05-29-2003, 02:05 PM

Personally I'd get rid of those rivets, and I'd have the holes in the hub assemblies threaded for flat headed/standard head (not phillips!) machine screws (so you can tighten them with an impact driver). That's what holds my drums to the hub assemblies now and I've had no problems. If your drums are in spec then they'll have to be beveled to take the screw heads so you won't have clearance issues with your wheels.

Any brake shop should be able to do this for you if they're worth their salt. Otherwise you'll have to separate the hub assmblies from the spindle, take a drum with you, and have it done at a machine shop.

05-29-2003, 02:05 PM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Personally I'd get rid of those rivets, and I'd have the holes in the hub assemblies threaded for flat headed/standard head (not phillips!) machine screws (so you can tighten them with an impact driver). That's what holds my drums to the hub assemblies now and I've had no problems. If your drums are in spec then they'll have to be beveled to take the screw heads so you won't have clearance issues with your wheels. Any brake shop should be able to do this for you if they're worth their salt. Otherwise you'll have to separate the hub assmblies from the spindle, take a drum with you, and have it done at a machine shop. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.