[jkade]

I guess I answered my own question or a guy on steelsoliders did....lol

Here is a breakdown of how to wire in a civilian dash board / gauge cluster with oil, temp and two volt gauges.

First identifying the wires:

2 brown wires- Gen 1 & 2
Gray- Low coolant
Pink & black Hot from fuse box
Tan&white- Brake warning
Tan- oil
Black- Ground
Brown&red- Gen 2 relay
Dk. Green- Water Temp
White- 4WD light
Tan- Dash lights
Orange_ Hot, 24Volt, power feed for 2nd volt gauge, and/or 2nd gen. light.
Dk. Blue- Right Turn
Lt. Blue_ Left Turn
Yellow_ Seat belt light

Here's where to move them to in the dashboard / gauge cluster connector, by the numbers on the connector.
1. Hi beam
2. Dash Lights
3. 12 Volt gauge ground
4. 12 Volt gauge input, (should be only when switch is on).
5. Oil sender wire.
6. Positive / Hot
7. clock, leave empty if don't have a clock.
8. Clock also.
9. Temp sensor switch.
10. Positive / Hot
11. Right turn signal
12. Left turn signal
13. warning / dummy light ground
14. Warning / dummy light ground
15. Warning / dummy light ground
16. Positive / Hot
17. Warning / dummy light ground
18. Fuel sender wire.

#'s 1, 2, 11, & 12 stay the same as they were, some others may also, I don't recall.

If your truck your taking your donor gauges from was 4wd, it will have a 4wd. indicator in position for # 15, low cool will go in # 14, and brake into # 17.

To wire in a voltage gauge for the 24 volt battery, take voltage into the voltage gauge from the 24volt bus bar, and ground it out from the gauge to a 12 volt positive point. The reading will be high, but within the scale of the gauge.
To position the gauge in the factory gauge position for the clock takes some work. I found a factory gauge face that fit across the opening. I removed the gauge working parts on it and installed the gauge working parts from a voltage gauge to that face with silicone. I used a white after market gauge face to match the other gauges. I then reattached the needle to indicate the correct position at zero power. If using a factory voltage gauge for the donor parts gauge, you need to solder a wire to the correct metal post, and use a nut to hold the other wire to the correct aluminum post. If you look at the factory gauge in the cluster you will see which ones to attach the wire to. You will also need to do some cutting. Remove the area behind where the gauge will go to allow the wires to come through. Also remove the covered area where the clock would have gone. I used a cutter in a Dremel tool for this and it came out neatly done.

Hope this helps someone save a couple days figuring this out like I just spent.

Edits: You will need new sending units for the two gauges, oil and temp.
You can put indicator lights for the two generator wires in some where else and run extensions off the two brown and brown / red generator wires to them, thus still having the two dummy lights.
Wiring the Generator dummy lights:
#1 Gen. light. Feed it 12volts, and ground it to the brown generator wire.
#2 Gen. light. Feed it 24volts and ground it to the brown/red wire that goes to the Generator #2 relay. This relay should be powered on whenever the key is on. It is located below the stock radio opening, near the diagnostic plug. There are two regular relays there, the #2 generator relay and the original voltage gauge relay. There will also be a heavy duty relay, this is the starting relay.