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loridr · 12-31-2010, 11:48 AM

When I built my truck I did all the sandblasting myself and here’s my take on it:

I did the work in my driveway using tarps to catch the sand. It’s a heck of a mess, I’m quite certain that the neighbors loved me, LOL.

I started on small parts using a 50lb Tool Shed pressure blaster and my single stage shop compressor. It did OK on the small stuff but it quickly became apparent that trying to do the big stuff with it would take FOREVER!

To do the big stuff I ended up renting a 200lb pressure blaster and a construction grade tag-along compressor from a local equipment rental center. That setup worked great and I was able to do the frame and the complete body over a long weekend.

I used sand and did recycle (reuse) it. That works ok but if you use sand realize these things:

1. You need to buy sand specifically for sand blasting, construction grade and play sand is too dirty and not sharp enough. In my local area both Pennsy Supply and Budding’s carry sandblasting media.
2. Use a fine grade of sand to achieve a smooth finish that levels out nicely when you spray your epoxy primer.
3. If you recycle the sand; with each use the sand looses some of it’s abrasiveness as the “edges” get knocked off.
4. Because the sand breaks down with each use, the sand and work becomes progressively dustier. Be certain to sift the recycled sand through a fine screen as well to get out larger particles that will clog your blast nozzle.

Be prepared to either epoxy prime immediately or use some type of coating that will prevent flash rust until you are ready to prime. I did the latter using a product I bought from Raybuck that worked great. I don’t remember what it was specifically but I know it was a powder that you mix with water, then use it to scrub the bare metal. It cleans and treats the metal and dries to a white powdery looking finish that you can primer right over, OR, it will kept the metal rust free until you do prime. I didn't prime for months, I stored the treated parts over the winter months in my unheated garage and had absolutely no rust. To prep for epoxy primer I simply mixed up a new batch of the stuff and scrubbed the parts down again with scuff pads immediately prior to priming and it worked great.

Would I do it again? NO. If I lived out in the country and had a corner in that back 40 where i could just leave the mess, MAYBE.

12-31-2010, 11:48 AM	#19
loridr Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania Posts: 38	Re: sand blasting question When I built my truck I did all the sandblasting myself and here’s my take on it: I did the work in my driveway using tarps to catch the sand. It’s a heck of a mess, I’m quite certain that the neighbors loved me, LOL. I started on small parts using a 50lb Tool Shed pressure blaster and my single stage shop compressor. It did OK on the small stuff but it quickly became apparent that trying to do the big stuff with it would take FOREVER! To do the big stuff I ended up renting a 200lb pressure blaster and a construction grade tag-along compressor from a local equipment rental center. That setup worked great and I was able to do the frame and the complete body over a long weekend. I used sand and did recycle (reuse) it. That works ok but if you use sand realize these things: 1. You need to buy sand specifically for sand blasting, construction grade and play sand is too dirty and not sharp enough. In my local area both Pennsy Supply and Budding’s carry sandblasting media. 2. Use a fine grade of sand to achieve a smooth finish that levels out nicely when you spray your epoxy primer. 3. If you recycle the sand; with each use the sand looses some of it’s abrasiveness as the “edges” get knocked off. 4. Because the sand breaks down with each use, the sand and work becomes progressively dustier. Be certain to sift the recycled sand through a fine screen as well to get out larger particles that will clog your blast nozzle. Be prepared to either epoxy prime immediately or use some type of coating that will prevent flash rust until you are ready to prime. I did the latter using a product I bought from Raybuck that worked great. I don’t remember what it was specifically but I know it was a powder that you mix with water, then use it to scrub the bare metal. It cleans and treats the metal and dries to a white powdery looking finish that you can primer right over, OR, it will kept the metal rust free until you do prime. I didn't prime for months, I stored the treated parts over the winter months in my unheated garage and had absolutely no rust. To prep for epoxy primer I simply mixed up a new batch of the stuff and scrubbed the parts down again with scuff pads immediately prior to priming and it worked great. Would I do it again? NO. If I lived out in the country and had a corner in that back 40 where i could just leave the mess, MAYBE.