The knob should not require a tool to turn. They can be tight from lack of routine service/dirt/too much grease. I use oil to lube my outer hubs and only grease on the bearings and inside the rotor hub. I suggest just removing,cleaning,inspecting,and if all looks good reinstalling.
The spindle nuts need to be snug enough to not allow play (I do the push/pull at 12 & 6) and to allow the wheel to spin freely. You have to watch getting too tight. When you feel you are close,take it slow and keep checking play/free spin until it is snugged up. The new grease can give a false feeling of snug,so check well for play/spin. If it's gets tightened too far it will crush the bearing. Yet,just a bit to snug,like just enough so the wheel has resistance,it won't hurt. Then,you can back it off just enough to allow free spin. Just put on your touchy feely hat and you'll be fine.
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Originally Posted by SeventyOne
I really would argue against a cold chisel to turn the spindle nuts - too easy to slip and goober up the threads then you've got bigger problems. Just get the spindle socket -they're at best $15. Use the right tool for the right job.
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There was a time you couldn't find spindle nut sockets very easily. 4wds weren't that common and you were more on your own. For the sake of argument I'll say I bet I serviced more front axles using a cold chisel without a problem than most anyone on here has used a socket. I suggest someone with skills so poor as to not be able to control a hammer & chisel on a nut with huge notched edges stay away from servicing a front hub assembly. My first 4wd had a busted outer axle shaft when I bought it. I watched one of the most thorough and talented mechanics use this method to disassemble and reassemble my hubs and felt I learned a useful technique. I only bought a spindle socket in more recent years because,yes,it's best to use the right tool for the right job. For me it was a matter of it's just plain faster and easier. But,it's always good to know an alternative when the right tool isn't present.