[J. Billman]

Thanks for the input. I did decide to cut it out and replace it. Since I am not building a show winner I will be using the cleco setup with about 1 inch bigger on the front rear and transmission tunnel sides, plug welding it 20 or so places and seam sealing it. What took me 3 weekends to do was undone and redone in just one. Amazing how experience cut that much time off.

FYI: the second floor panel I bought was from goodmark.. 38$ +33 shipping. The first one I bought was from classic industries. 26$ + 25 shipping... Exact same stamping!

I took one of my big panel clamp (woodworking tool) and utilized it to push the cab support down. I think I could have made the old one work but when I cut it out and pushed the cab support down it would have put serious stress's that should not be there.

I took rays advice and cut out the cab mount hole welded in some flat and might cut the original out of the rusty floor pan. Not sure yet. You can see how far off the mounting hole was... about an inch and a half!

I had to cut 2 reliefs. One, right by the transmission tunnel where the gas pedal bump is and one where the floor begins to drop ( to the left of the cab mount hole at the front). These reliefs allowed the floor to match the bracing contours better. I think welding the patch in the middle of the panel caused it to warp.

I will have to pay some attention to the floor / kick panel are but that will be on hold until the kick panel arrives. You can see that I have had to modify the floor panel in this area quite a bit. Chances are it's not right and will need some banging.


Ray... If I had to do it again, I think I would buy the full length outer floor/ inner rocker like you are talking about. The best price I have found on this part is from "TruckandCarShop.com" part number 67-094121. 57$ Picture is the same as goodmark/LMC, but I don't know if they are the same.