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Old 04-25-2011, 08:38 AM   #11
lindstromjd
Gentleman Jim owner x2
 
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: West Des Moines, IA
Posts: 464
Re: looking to swap a 6.2L

Quote:
Originally Posted by GmtGmt View Post
you need engine mounts, converter for a diesel or a manual tranny, rework the wiring, exhurst, 2 batteries, bigger radiator, oil cooler lines and oil cooler
You can actually get away without the bigger radiator. Just don't ever let it over-heat, so if you're going to tow things, then get the bigger radiator. If you're just going to drive it, you'll be fine. But the sensor on the diesel runs at a different resistance setting than a gas engine, so your gauge will read as if it's not heating up all the way. Trust me... it is DEFINITELY heating up. Same with the oil cooler. You don't REALLY need one. If you're not going to be towing anything, just make a line that connects the two ports together so you have oil flow through them. It's important to keep the oil pressure at the right setting. What I'm planning on doing with mine is making a hose that goes from the "feed" line on the block up to my turbo (when I get around to putting it on) and having the "return" line from the turbo going to an aftermarket oil cooler, and the return line from the oil cooler going back into the block. The wiring is as simple as taking everything that belongs to the gas engine and plugging it into the diesel where it should go (i.e. sensors, starter wires, etc) and the "Power to coil" wire for the distributor goes to the injection pump at the front of the engine. It's very important to get that one right; if you don't have it hooked up, your pump will never open to let your engine start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GmtGmt View Post
also drain your fuel tank or replace them remember the has to have 2 lines 1 feed 1 return and working fuel cab so its sealed or else you will have drain back and have hard starts.

also very importent a Fuel filter get one for a boat or something like that with a water seperator
like this
Water separator (or equivalent diesel fuel filter) is important. Don't use the stock style fuel filter / water separator that is mounted on the firewall. It's a piece of crap. You can use your Evaporator Canister fuel line as your fuel return line. You won't need the evap canister anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post
If you want to go faster then 75mph and have power get a cummins.Talk to http://www.destroked.com/index.shtml or http://www.autoworldmt.com/ If its a 4x4 http://www.avalancheengineering.com/xmember73-91.html
Have you ever driven a 6.2? I've had mine at 75 on the interstate (in front of a Turbo 350, nonetheless, so no overdrive) and had PLENTY of power. If I put it to the floor at that speed, I could pass people faster than my old gasoline engine could dream about.

Once you come to respect the 6.2, you get sick of people bashing it because it's not a "black smoke blower" diesel engine. It was never meant to be. I love mine, and am more than willing to help you out with whatever questions you have when it comes to the swap. Just remember, it's a diesel (read: totally different way of driving compared to gas engines to get the most out of it). You can't just stomp on the throttle like you can with a gas engine (and that goes for ANY diesel engine). You have to "ease into it" and gradually increase the throttle to get the best response. Black smoke is just wasted fuel and just shows your engine's inability to burn all the fuel you're dumping into the system. It's also based on a GM big block, so it weighs about 250-300 lbs more than a small block. You'll want to beef up your front springs to be able to handle the weight. I went with 3/4 ton suspension on mine and am very happy with it.

It bolts right up to everything when you pull your SBC out. Engine mounts, transmission bell housing, everything. You need a diesel specific torque converter (low stall speed). You need to figure out a way to wire in your glow plugs. I used a Ford starter solenoid and push button. You'll need a vacuum pump if you're running a 3 speed automatic transmission, otherwise your tranny will never shift. The exhaust is easy to re-route (if you have stock manifolds right now, you won't have to change anything at all). You need to drain your fuel tank as well as you can, and top it completely off with diesel before you try to start it for the first time. DO NOT EVER USE ETHER / STARTING FLUID. It will destroy your head gaskets faster than you can blink. Any other questions that you run into along the way... feel free to ask!!
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1975 GMC Gentleman Jim #1
-357 / 700r4
1975 GMC Gentleman Jim #2
-350 / TH350
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