The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - Disk Brake Conversion - to upgrade ball joints and tie rod ends or not

**jocko** · 04-26-2011, 11:05 PM

Here's a question fer y'all.

Several of the previous threads about splitting single res master cyls to dual and possibly adding a power booster to a 4 drum brake system mention using 1967 Impala and 1967 C10 masters. I do realize that 67 is the year that dual res MC's became mandatory - but have a question about that particular selection:

Were all 67 C10's 4 wheel drum brake setups - or were any disk/drum setups available yet? (i.e. - I think I found a nice inexpensive matched master cylinder with booster at Oreilly's but the one thing I can't differentiate on it is whether the MC is for a drum/drum or disk/drum setup).

Here's the link to that part: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1305&ppt=C0066

Next question - in those same threads I mentioned about splitting the lines (GREAT one by ChiefRocka - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332148) there were several questions about how to properly adjust/set the length of the push rod for the MC. The link to the Oreilly part above states the length is set for the vehicle (but keep in mind - that vehicle is a 67 C10, not a 60-66 and the mounting is different). So, if I bought the Oreilly part - I'd also buy CaptainFab's booster mounting bracket to go with it. I'm assuming that since I'd need Capt's bracket and it stands off from the firewall a bit (unlike a 67 C10 that appears mounted directly to the firewall with no bracketry) that I'd need to lengthen the pushrod a good bit.

My question is this - does anyone know if the Oreilly or over-the-counter bargain basement booster/mc combos are adjustable at all? If so, how much capacity to lengthen? (the ad says it's pre-adjusted" so that leads me to believe it's adjustable - but how? I see no visible threaded rod or jam nuts, etc).

Determining the correct length should not be hard - in fact ChiegRocka's got some important specific gouge about that in his thread - but I'd really like to avoid having to cut a pushrod and lengthen it - would rather just "adjust" it out, am hoping there's threaded rod inside the boot that i can't see. (note that on the Oreilly part above, there are different views one can select).

I'm really startin to lean toward this less expensive type of setup - and keeping my stock wheels/tires, etc.

I had saved up for a CPP disk setup, but I would lose the use of the stock wheels - and it's $$$ (but a very nice product and worth it). I know disks are better, but my drums on this truck do seem to already stop it on a dime - they're just not power boosted and they are still single res original master cylinder. So I could go power dual res for the $100 for the combo and then a few lines I'd need to bend up. It may not look it but I have a lot of money tied up in PC on my stock steelies - and I love 'em. Buying new or finding old disk brake steelies and then PC'ing them would be a lot more $$$ too. So if I disked it, I'd probably just paint up my rallies and use them - which is very nice, but I like my stockers. Hate to throw all that away just for a little (maybe) extra stopping power. I do not believe I need to install a prop valve in a 4 wheel drum setup, so that cost is gone too. I can take the extra money I saved for the big $$ brake kit and sink it into the 5-speed conversion (ulterior motive....)

Any help would be appreciated. Rich and Captain, thanks very much for your comments, very helpful.

04-26-2011, 11:05 PM	#10
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 18,001	Re: Disk Brake Conversion - to upgrade ball joints and tie rod ends or not Here's a question fer y'all. Several of the previous threads about splitting single res master cyls to dual and possibly adding a power booster to a 4 drum brake system mention using 1967 Impala and 1967 C10 masters. I do realize that 67 is the year that dual res MC's became mandatory - but have a question about that particular selection: Were all 67 C10's 4 wheel drum brake setups - or were any disk/drum setups available yet? (i.e. - I think I found a nice inexpensive matched master cylinder with booster at Oreilly's but the one thing I can't differentiate on it is whether the MC is for a drum/drum or disk/drum setup). Here's the link to that part: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1305&ppt=C0066 Next question - in those same threads I mentioned about splitting the lines (GREAT one by ChiefRocka - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332148) there were several questions about how to properly adjust/set the length of the push rod for the MC. The link to the Oreilly part above states the length is set for the vehicle (but keep in mind - that vehicle is a 67 C10, not a 60-66 and the mounting is different). So, if I bought the Oreilly part - I'd also buy CaptainFab's booster mounting bracket to go with it. I'm assuming that since I'd need Capt's bracket and it stands off from the firewall a bit (unlike a 67 C10 that appears mounted directly to the firewall with no bracketry) that I'd need to lengthen the pushrod a good bit. My question is this - does anyone know if the Oreilly or over-the-counter bargain basement booster/mc combos are adjustable at all? If so, how much capacity to lengthen? (the ad says it's pre-adjusted" so that leads me to believe it's adjustable - but how? I see no visible threaded rod or jam nuts, etc). Determining the correct length should not be hard - in fact ChiegRocka's got some important specific gouge about that in his thread - but I'd really like to avoid having to cut a pushrod and lengthen it - would rather just "adjust" it out, am hoping there's threaded rod inside the boot that i can't see. (note that on the Oreilly part above, there are different views one can select). I'm really startin to lean toward this less expensive type of setup - and keeping my stock wheels/tires, etc. I had saved up for a CPP disk setup, but I would lose the use of the stock wheels - and it's $$$ (but a very nice product and worth it). I know disks are better, but my drums on this truck do seem to already stop it on a dime - they're just not power boosted and they are still single res original master cylinder. So I could go power dual res for the $100 for the combo and then a few lines I'd need to bend up. It may not look it but I have a lot of money tied up in PC on my stock steelies - and I love 'em. Buying new or finding old disk brake steelies and then PC'ing them would be a lot more $$$ too. So if I disked it, I'd probably just paint up my rallies and use them - which is very nice, but I like my stockers. Hate to throw all that away just for a little (maybe) extra stopping power. I do not believe I need to install a prop valve in a 4 wheel drum setup, so that cost is gone too. I can take the extra money I saved for the big $$ brake kit and sink it into the 5-speed conversion (ulterior motive....) Any help would be appreciated. Rich and Captain, thanks very much for your comments, very helpful. Last edited by jocko; 04-26-2011 at 11:17 PM.