certainly, but it ain't gonna be pretty lookin like most of the pics I've seen!
I'll post a couple more pics on the weekend...
I appreciate all the help you guys have given and to the operators of the forum, and especially it's search functions, as though I didn't learn everything I needed via search, I did learn ALOT, and continue to do so on every topic I look up...so thanks!
I've never revamped an entire brake system in one shot before.. Also first time using double flare tool -- I'm hoping my flares will not leak! Many of the bends are by hand. I have a simple bending tool, but it's useless when you need tight bends in tight areas, which is basically my entire brake line setup!
The last guy who owned the truck (or whomever!) plumbed nearly all the brakelines about as
close to the exhaust as possible. I wanted to avoid that stupid mistake, so I have gone out of my way to keep the lines cooler than they've ever been on that truck...
copying as best I could newer model chev's (80's) I ran the front brake lines forward in the engine bay from the prop valve.
driver front side bends down and back along the inside of the frame, to connect to the driver brake hose. passenger front goes to the same point forward, then down and across the frame support under the radiator, then back inside the frame towards the pass brake hose.
the rear line heads out and down towards the firewall from the prop valve, avoiding wiring harnesses and the steering column, as well as the exhaust, where it bends back and down and across the manual transmission cross-member. from there, it runs inside the frame again, all the way to the rear axle and it's single brake hose, which t's off to both rear brakes.. I replaced the lines from as close to the rear brake hose, as possible, but basically it's stock routing, but 3/16 line instead of 1/4.
anyway, I plumbed up the rear line last night to the prop valve, and finished the 2 lines from m/c to prop valve. I also realized I needed to remount my prop valve from being solid on the fender, to hanging somewhat freely (like most guy's setup)... otherwise, what's the point of the coils & extra bends to keep vibration from killing your lines, right? So I will cut up some bar stock, put it in the vice, do some bending and shaping and a little paint for a mount, that will be in basically the same spot underneath the m/c.
I also adjusted the vac booster pushrod outward about 1 full turn from it's factory position. I of course, totally forgot to measure it with the digi-caliper...
but it's only two bolts to get the mc off, so no biggie... I'll post up a figure after I've bled and test driven the brakes just to be sure I post a number that actually works...
here's one more question for you all:
because my truck sees alot of water and mud,
is there any harm or benefit to running RTV along the seam between the m/c and booster???
the old one had some buildup in this area -- everything worked, but it was there none the less...perhaps rtv would keep it clean?