[DetroitDan]

As above, loosen all the bolts on one side just enough so they can wiggle a little, then go to the other side and remove all of them. Then jack that side up, pull the blocks and set it down onto the stock body mounts. You will need new body bolts. Unless maybe you can cut down the long bolts. I usually put a 4x4 on the jack up to the floor board under the cab floor, may have to adjust to get it where it will lift evenly. Or use two jacks. After you carefully set it back down on that side, line it up and start the bolts, so it can't slide when you jack up the other side. Go to the other side, drop the bolts and jack it just enough to get the blocks out, then set it down. Usually everything stays lined up if you do it this way, and the cab won't shift or go anywhere. If a hole doesn't exactly line up just use one of those pointy bars to straighten it. Tighten em up, use threadlocker and doublecheck them in a few days of driving.

The bed is very simple, but if they've installed the fuel hose lengthener like they should you may have to reshorten it. Might not.

Like stated above, just be careful around the paint with the front bumper, the valance has to fit in behind it. If it looks like it will interfere you could pull the bumper, but I never have. You don't have bumper raising brackets so that's one less thing to worry about. If it's an auto you may have to re-shorten the shift linkage, but I'd try it first it might work. I've gotten away with it before. Transfer case shouldn't have been modified, unless maybe they cut the floor around it. Linkage is usually left alone. Check the steering shaft under the hood for a spacer. IIRC you can put a bodylift in one of these without a spacer, but I've had to put them in newer trucks.