Quote:
Originally Posted by 68steppsidee
i'd like to eventually get headers that will be above the frame and i have upper and lower tubular control arms but your saying the cross member will hit at about 6 in the front.. and the rear will can go 8 with just the diff up in the bed or will the c notch be threw as well... no reason to change rear set up just thought it would be a better way.. what if i got porterbuilt drop trailing arms as well...
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To be specific, at 6" of front drop w/the OE x-member & a-arm arrangement, the lower control arms like to bounce of the ground occassionally. Any lower & it will just happen more often. Not bad for a vehicle driven once or twice a month to a show.... sux for anything driven regularly.
Tubular front arms (except for Porterbuilts) will still hit just like the stock lower control arms. Porterbuilts use a smaller OD bushing so you gain about an inch more clearance (check w/him to 100% verify). I really like Porterbuilts rear truck arm set-up (both the mild & the rear Dropmember style). You could start out w/the mild Stage-2 or just use the factory arms for now w/some tweaks & get one of his kits later when the budget permits.
For 6" front drop you'd want 3" spindles, bags, & shock relocators. For 8" rear drop you'll need lowering blocks for the OE truck arms (or some of Porterbuilts 3" dropped truck arms), bags, shock relocation, bolt-in c-notches (PB's or CPP's HD unit), & a super/long, adjustable Panhard bar. If you plan on using your stock truck arms, No Limit has a nice rear shock relocation set-up now.
In the pic below, the rear end 'pumpkin' has poked a hole through the orignal (what was left of it anyway) bed wood. At ride height, the rear end axle tube is 1" above the bottom lip of the factory frame rail (1" into the frame) & 2" from bottoming out on the bolt-in CPP style c-notch. Any lower, & you need to consider a step-notch or aggressive frame mods....