[beamn7]

Correct, mine does have CA emissions so it will be wired differently however the pins in the connectors will mostly have the same function. "A" will always be hot and drop with brake depressed. The rest is what changes depending on ECM or no ECM, etc. You can have a 3rd gear normally open pressure switch that closes upon the transmission reaching 3rd and then applies power to a TCC solenoid that is grounded to the case OR a ground that is run through a pressure switch that then completes the ground once the vehicle has reached second gear and there is a 4-3 downshift pressure switch on the positive side that momentarliy releases the TCC upon a 4-3 downshift, etc. The best thing to do would be get the previously mentioned model numbers off the trans and I can match it up with the schematics. Like I said, there are 11 different possible wiring configurations....
Here is the MOST likely scenario: (keep in mind that in schematic the plug on the harness and the plug on the transmission is inverted) "A" is light greeen, "B" is light blue and "D" is yellow. Circuit 383 (lt blue) is power feed, goes through splice 383 and to low vac switch, assuming engine is not in a low vaccum scenario, power will pass through the switch into the trans to the N.O. (normally open) 4th clutch switch. Once the vehicle reaches 4th gear the switch closes and provides power to the TCC solenoid which is grounded to the valve body. The converter clutch will now be engaged. At the same time, the TCC switch now closes providing a ground signal back to the EGR bleed solenoid that is already receiving power from circuit 383 (lt blue wire) and allows for a reduction in EGR flow in order to reduce the opportunity for pre-ignition / detonation / pinging since now you have a direct coupling rather than a fluid coupling which would have allowed for some runaway. I would verify that you have power to the light green wire at the transmission with the Key on and foot off the brake. IF so, then take the truck on the highway, obtain a steady speed and throttle pedal and once you have reached 4th gear lightly depress the brake pedal without taking your foot off the gas and listen. If you have a tach, you should see approx 200-400 rpm increase. (give or take depending on load). IF not, most likely you have another issue. (pressure switch, tcc solenoid, sticking apply valve in the valve body, etc)
Below is the schematic and a flow chart for testing the electrical side of the system. The "test plug" is an orange plug that is under your dash near the fuse panel....

Hope this helps....