Anyone have a preferred driveshaft parts supplier? I know that HAD is popular around here but I want to build my own shafts. The best 2 so far that I've found have been
www.drive-lines.com which is Drive Line Service of Fresno, and then
www.northerndrivetrain.com which is a little pricier than DLSF but similar selection. DLSF seems to have EVERYTHING of any u joint size series. I have ordered from them before with good luck, but wondering what other options do I have out there?
Now on the driveline tech side of things, when I built my motor mount crossmember I inadvertently raised the engine/crank centerline straight up by like 2'' or 3'', so my t-case, even though its divorced and I can put it where I want, will also be higher up. It will also be further back since it's a divorced case. Well all of this means steeper rear drive shaft angles. I am only slightly concerned about running 1350 joints, but the cost difference of going to a 1410 setup at the tcase (vs 1350 parts, prices being for a flange yoke, slip yoke, and weld on slip stub shaft) for the rear shaft is only a few more bucks for parts from DLSF. However, I already have a 1350 flange yoke though, so I'd have to spend another $43 for a 1410 flange yoke.
Anyway, my question is, is it really worth it to do to 1410 at the rear output of the tcase if I don't really have to? Lets assume that a 1350 joint will be able to reliably run in this setup in a single joint configuration, but we'll say that the angle is close to being where one would switch... I also want to avoid running a CV setup if possible.
So my options the way I see it currently...
1350 joint at rear output in the single joint configuration (no CV), already have the flange yoke, don't have any more parts for the rear shaft.
1410 joint at rear output in the single joint configuration (no CV), would have to buy the flange yoke and the rest of the 1410 parts for the rear shaft. Cost of the 1410 shaft parts are only a few bucks more, but a 1410 flange yoke adds another $43 to the cost. Remember I am on a starving student budget.
1350 CV at the rear output IF a CV can be run at the slip yoke end. I'd like to not have the slip at the diff if possible, but I don't know if a CV can be used on the slip end of the shaft, can someone school me there?
I guess I am not totally against the idea of a CV joint, but for ease of maintenance and ease of repair in case of breakage is a big factor here.
I also have some questions regarding slip stubs, the idea of only having say 2.5'' - 3'' of spline on the slip stub is not very appealing to me, but is this normal? Seems like the shorter length splines would wear quicker and have more slop and potential for vibration? Most of the high end shafts I see have full length splines on the male end of the weld on slip stub, but for a DD/Trail rig/remote offroad welding rig, is something like that going to be more than enough? Does anyone know where I could get the 1.5''x16spline weld on slip stubs with full length splines?
EDIT: Also looking for a weld yoke/tube yoke that will work with 3''x.120'' wall tube, anyone know where to get one? The yokes meant to work with that wimpy .083'' wall stuff just isn't going to cut it for me.
And has anyone purchased from
www.arizonadrivelines.com also known as "Drive Shaft Super Store" ? They have some of the long slip stuff that I'm after, but I remember hearing something a while back about them not being very reputable?