Quote:
Originally Posted by cjmdjm
And are the electrical connections on the Sanden compressor clutch compatible with the factory A/C control panel in the cab?
I assume I should also replace the original drier and expansion valve and filter with new ones, since the old ones are surely full of crap, correct?
I tried looking through Vintage Air's site for a mounting bracket for the Sanden 508 on the 366 engine, but I couldn't find one. Vintage Air's site also doesn't seem to give prices for anything. I can probably fabricate one if I have to, but if anyone knows where to buy one, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks guys!
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The cab panel is just feeding 12 volts to a big electromagnet in the clutch. You will need to get the right plug for the compressor end of the wire.
When you open an AC system you should always replace the drier. Never open or install the new drier till you are almost ready to vacuum the system down. Use the old drier to check the fit of your hoses and other components.
I always replace the oil to match my refrigerant, even in loaded new compressors, AC oils absorb water.
The TXV should be evaluated but if it's not packed full of crud or corrosion and it cycles properly you don't have to replace it.
If you have the tall deck brackets for the original Harrison A6 compressor you can convert them to Sanden mounts. Google "A6 to Sanden" and ignore the Audi links. There are several drop-in Sanden 508 kits that come with bracket adapters and end covers allowing you to keep the Harrison A6 fittings.
You can just replace the flexible portions of the hoses with modified lengths of barrier hose. If you do keep the OEM hose fittings replace or eliminate the muffler because you will never clear all of the R12 oil from the baffles.
The Evaporator can be flushed and re-used. If you intend to use R134 you should consider a high efficiency parallel flow condenser.