Shrunken, I'm going to be using an LS2 and No Limit's R&P on my '66. Do you think there would be any interference issues with notching the crossmember to drop the engine/trans lower?
From this pic it looks like there's room for maybe a couple inches? I imagine that it would be tough fitting headers around the frame rails if it was dropped any more. Thanks in advance.
Astronaut, the problems I see with lowering the engine might be prohibitive. Ultimately it's up to you but here goes. You'll have to custom fab the engine mounts and headers or cut the frame rail to squeeze headers in. You will have to get a shallower pan than the "muscle car swap" pan I have, which is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The f-body pan should work. I don't have the accessory drive yet, so that's a variable that I can't give you any insight on.
Notching the cross member won't be a problem, you just need to leave enough room to get to the nuts to tighten the rack mounting plate inside the crossmember. You might have to reroute the brake lines that run along the rear of the crossmember. Also, address the usuals stuff like drive shaft angle, length and shifter location. A couple inches probably won't affect flow between the block and radiator, right?
And after all of that, when you're done the engine compartment might look half empty. I don't know if it's worth the trouble, honestly. You're already taking a ton of weight off the front end with aluminum block, heads and no boat anchor steering box. Are you planning on racing autocross with it? If you are, go for it. If it's a street truck then I wouldn't bother with an inch or two either way. I hope this ramble helps. Good luck!
