Not too bad a job. Managed to replace the radiator, leak free so far and fix up a few places with missing bolts too.
As Bigten suggested, pull a hose, add a hose, start the motor and let it fast idle till clear and flushed.
I was suprised, takes more than a few minutes to flush it clear.
Once I was satisfied with the flush, I secured the keys and yanked the battery out. Battery is in the way of some shroud bolts anyway and its nice to know it won't start while I'm messin around the fan.
Here I've got the fan shroud back (only 3 of 6 required bolts were installed) and getting the fan and pully out of the way so I can clean it all up and get the new radiator in w/o gouging it on the fan blades.
Everything but the radiator is out and I'm dumping the parts in my majic coffee can...majic cause I put all the parts in it and still manage to loose at least one.
This is all that holds the radiator in...top bracket. Fortunatly the upper rubber pads are soft, plyable and in good condition. I'll reuse them....takeing them off the top tank is a careful job cause they're often stuck. These were only a little stuck and came off with no issues.
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Heres the pair, original Harrison on the right. A couple differences in the new radiator, drain plug is on the right and it has an auto trans cooler inside. That may come in handy in a year or so.
I installed the plugs with a bit of high temp pipe dope to keep a seal. From experience, don't overtorque these fittings in brass tanks, the brass threads are tender and strip easily.
At this point, I sprayed out all the mud dauber nests and set the lower rubber bumpers back in place, time for a test fit of the new radiator.
Woops, trans cooler fitting is in the way of the driverside bottom radiator mount. I could clamp it down but want it centered properly. So a quick mod to the bracket is called for.
Pull out the rad and the rubber and grind off a bit of clearance in the bracket...
Now I have the room I need to center the radiator and to install those future auto trans cooler lines.
And the top bracket lines up too.
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Reinstalling the top clamp. A bit of greese to keep the threads from rusting up if I ever want to pull the rad out again...prolly in a year or so for an engine overhaul but hopefully not before. Waterpump seems good. It flows plenty of water has no slop in the shaft and no leaks I can see so, I left it alone. If it goes out, a Brassworks Flowcooler goes in to replace it. Thermostat is working fine to, so, no call to unbutton the engine at this time.
I took the time to scrub and inspect the composite plastic fan shroud. Fortunatly its in great shape with no cracks or breaks. This is a $250 part and I'm glad not to have to purchase a new one. Looked in the junk yards already, they are all missing from the trucks! Must be a popular part. But it only had three of six sheetmetal tapping screws holding it in place so I drilled out the old threads in the brackets and prepped it for 6 new 1/4" screws with washers and nuts.
Properly bolted down, top to bottom on both the left and right sides.
