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Old 11-16-2012, 10:10 PM   #399
jlsanborn
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Quote:
Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX View Post
You would know already if your W/D is compatible, because your primer would wrinkle or get gummy when you wipe it on. so you should be ok there. seam sealer is designed to stay flexible, and will take a long time to cure at low temps. thicker takes even longer ( like drip rail opposed to rocker seams ). I would say dont get near it with block sanding. just do the scotch bright thing. Good talkin with you yesterday, keep movin forward, and listen to the elco !
Good talking to you too man! I did find some pics of OG '67 two tones and you're right about the window frames and the A pillars. I still think I'm going to white them tho. On one hand I'd like to stick to '67 only stuff, but on the other it's pretty custom already so I think I'll go with what I think looks cool, just like you said. The seam sealer is finally pretty hard now. The very bottom of the vertical drip rails is still kinda soft but it'll firm up. I wasn't trying to sand the primer on there but was trying to block down as close as I could. Here and there I got too close and doinked it with the corner of the block. I touched it up and am ok with it but overall I think I could have done a better job. It wasn't until I was almost done that I really figured out how to lay the crap down nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Elco View Post
x2 on the above, except to say that all these things are formulated to work together. It's the coats after the W/G that are the concern. Wax and grease remover shouldn't be a problem, (I used PPG before Nason on Yeller, 'cause that was what was at the shop) Lots of guys are paranoid about that, but whatever works for ya. Your guide sounds good, but yeah, you gotta let that stuff dry. Glad to hear you had an easier time. Don't be po'ed about the seam sealer, you want it to stay flexible. Like Cman said, just cut it a wide berth with the block. YOu did round off one edge of your Durablocks, right? They get a bit sharp on the small details. Important tip: especially from here on in, NEVER just use your fingers and paper. You can dig finger tracks faster than you can imagine. Take a used piece of scotchbrite and fold it in thirds, wrap your DA paper around it, works great. Keep it up, you're doing good. This is the edge of the cliff where it all starts to come together and be worth it. Kind of like being out in the woods, just keep walkin', you'll get there!
Picked up the P400 today. I pulled her out for another blow (no money shot tho!) and swept out the fun-dome again. Got everything settled back in and shot a real light coat of guide on there. Wetsand tomorrow!!! Great tip on the Scotchbrite sanding block! I really need a clue on how much yella to buy so I can mix it into one batch. You used a bucket to equalize then put it back into the gallon cans??
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'77 K30 3+3 - "The Crummy"
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640134
'67 C10 L/SWB - Soon to be daily driver!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=471776
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