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*HEI451* · 11-18-2012, 01:21 AM

That would be backwards, it is the E-O, I-C method.

Do one cylinder at a time, rotate engine with breaker bar and socket on dampener.

Rotate engine until the exhaust on the cylinder you are setting just begins to OPEN, SET THAT CYLINDER'S INTAKE VALVE.

When done setting that intake valve, rotate engine around, exhaust will open and close, along with the intake you just set

When that intake valve just CLOSES, SET THE EXHAUST VALVE.

Go on to the next cylinder, repeat.

I usually do that when I am still building the engine, with the intake manifold off, so I can see the lifters move in the block. If yo take your time and look closely, it can be done by watching the push rod's movement as well.

This E-O, I-C method works on every camshaft ever made, no matter the type and/or grind specification. It is the only method that gets every cam lobe directly in the center of the heel of the cam, just where you want to set valves.

Another thing I sometimes do is to "Create A Specification". Let's say you are doing a solid lifter cam valve adjustment, and the specification calls for a HOT valve setting. Well, problem is, the engine cools way off while you are setting the valves. So, easier to set those valves cold, but what clearance specification setting?

Well,this is where we create, make our own clearance up. Warm engine to operating temp, run vehicle around if possible, get it hot. Come back to the garage, pull the easiest to get to valve cover, do a HOT E-O, I-C setting to the correct clearance. Let's say the hot settings are I-.012, E-.014. Set that one pair of valves hot, one cylinder.

Go do something else, let the vehicle get cold, as in over night, you are done on the car for the day. Come back out the next morning, rotate the engine over cold, by hand, at least three complete revolutions. Do a E-O, I-C cold read on those two valves. Let's say the intake went from .012, down to .008, and the exhaust went from .014, down to .009, THESE are your new "Create A Specification" COLD valve setting clearances.

Set the rest of the valves using the new cold settings. All uniform, all good, no burns, hot to warm as the engine cooled off, no oily mess.

After all that, go drive and enjoy that thing, you earned it.

11-18-2012, 01:21 AM	#5
HEI451 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Yerington, Nevada Posts: 864	Re: setting valves That would be backwards, it is the E-O, I-C method. Do one cylinder at a time, rotate engine with breaker bar and socket on dampener. Rotate engine until the exhaust on the cylinder you are setting just begins to OPEN, SET THAT CYLINDER'S INTAKE VALVE. When done setting that intake valve, rotate engine around, exhaust will open and close, along with the intake you just set When that intake valve just CLOSES, SET THE EXHAUST VALVE. Go on to the next cylinder, repeat. I usually do that when I am still building the engine, with the intake manifold off, so I can see the lifters move in the block. If yo take your time and look closely, it can be done by watching the push rod's movement as well. This E-O, I-C method works on every camshaft ever made, no matter the type and/or grind specification. It is the only method that gets every cam lobe directly in the center of the heel of the cam, just where you want to set valves. Another thing I sometimes do is to "Create A Specification". Let's say you are doing a solid lifter cam valve adjustment, and the specification calls for a HOT valve setting. Well, problem is, the engine cools way off while you are setting the valves. So, easier to set those valves cold, but what clearance specification setting? Well,this is where we create, make our own clearance up. Warm engine to operating temp, run vehicle around if possible, get it hot. Come back to the garage, pull the easiest to get to valve cover, do a HOT E-O, I-C setting to the correct clearance. Let's say the hot settings are I-.012, E-.014. Set that one pair of valves hot, one cylinder. Go do something else, let the vehicle get cold, as in over night, you are done on the car for the day. Come back out the next morning, rotate the engine over cold, by hand, at least three complete revolutions. Do a E-O, I-C cold read on those two valves. Let's say the intake went from .012, down to .008, and the exhaust went from .014, down to .009, THESE are your new "Create A Specification" COLD valve setting clearances. Set the rest of the valves using the new cold settings. All uniform, all good, no burns, hot to warm as the engine cooled off, no oily mess. After all that, go drive and enjoy that thing, you earned it.