[cortcomp]

Yesterday and today i cleaned the saddle tanks (they came out nice sp i didn't go any further) and installed the ford 6 hole to standard 5 hole sending unit flanges to the top of the tank. The insides of the tank were amazing! looked brand new! They're about 1/4" plastic of some sort, and seem pretty durable when working with them.

The adapter didn't come with nuts, so i went to lowe's and got some stainless screws (#10 if i recall?) and matching nylocks. If you do something like this, be sure to line up the sending unit where you want the float to travel, so it doesn't hit the pickup or something! I didn't on the first one and had to modify the sending unit flange a little to correct it.

It was hard at first getting the nuts on, 1 5/8" isn't a large hole to work through. Then i figured out to bend a wrench, and put some duct tape on the back of the box side and just set the nuts in. This took about 4 hours total (trimming and setting up the adjustable sending units, trip to lowers,etc.) but the second tank was like 20-25 minutes after learning on the first.

The sending units are 0-30 ohm (99% sure that's what's on the truck stock) and now i just need to reinforce the necks and fix that crack with 2.5" ID filler neck hose. Which NO ONE has around. I could use vinyl, but i wanted something stronger, so i'll have to order that.

I put all new rubber fuel line in. Right now it's just stock tank metal pickup tube to the new marine 3 tank valve (which fit perfectly as replacement for the one with the econo-tank kit) and from there to metal fuel line, then there to pump and pump hardline to carb.

The small piece from the metal line to the carb was VERY deteriorated and fell apart in my hands. It's amazing we made it from California (~2500 miles) with that line. No wonder it was losing prime. New fuel pump went in from napa (one line in, one line out model, no evap or return.)


So, once the hose comes in for the filler necks, i can get new gas caps and put these back up, then run the new rubber lines. Of course, being plastic tanks, the units will need a ground wire. Also, the 3 input toggle switch (STTT) came in from grainger, very heavy duty. Have to make it a mounting plate to match the fuel switching valve and label it to look as correct as i can, and wire it up. A lot of this interior is coming out shortly anyway, so i can better mount the valve so it doesn't bind, and make a permanent weatherproof connection for the switch. Might even decide to put it on the dash, if i can find somewhere not bad or terrible looking. I'm finding more and more botched and bad accessory wiring, so far most of it has just been cut and remove. I will try repairing the harness back to stock (just got repair manual too) and then add wiring for the accessories (pretty much just AC, that progressive trailer brake system, and the trailer plug mounted in the aftermarket bumper)

Finally settled on grey and black interior, as red and white would just seem to be too flashy for a truck, for me.

Also, found the tread COMING OFF the front tire, so need to get tires. I'd like some wider ones though, that fill the wheel wells a bit, and that fit stock rims (not really looking to upgrade to 5 bolt or disc in the near future.) and maybe lower the truck about 2"...i'll do all shortly when i upgrade the power steering, redo the engine bay, and put the new tranny in, remove their ghetto crossmember, and make sure all the pinion angles in the 2 piece driveshafts are good to go.