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Originally Posted by danheit
Well, I just went to Radio Shack on a search for resistors. The closest thing I could find was a 100 ohm 1W resistor. Is this going to be ok? I read another thread that said it would be ok, but I may be misreading.
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Well if you're not going to run the brown wire then you don't need the resistor.
If you are going to run the brown wire then you will need at least a 35 ohm resistor if your truck has the idiot light dash and at least a 50 ohm resistor if it has the gauge dash. Painless says to use an 85 ohm 5 watt resistor and other sources say to use a 3 watt resistor with anything from 35 to 300 ohms. You might need a diode as well if you get drain back with the engine off or if the engine continues to run with the key turned off. The resistor should take care of that problem though.
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Other BIG question I have is this: while I was talking to the old man at the alternator shop, he went on to tell me that the CS130 is a self exciting alternator and that the only thing I really NEED to have connected is the red battery terminal wire. Everything else is just "fluff"(my words, not his). The brown wire is there to act as a feedback wire so that the alternator doesn't feed power back through the ignition circuit and keep the truck running even after it is shut off, hence the reason for the resistor to stop the feedback. Does this sound even remotely right? I have taken a LOT of alternators and generators to him and he has always done exceptional work. This just contradicts most of what I am reading online.
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Did your friend tell you why the CS alternator is self exciting.? It's because of the residual magnetism in the alternator fields that when the engine spins up fast enough it will generate enough electricity to excite the voltage regulator and allow the alternator fields to power up the alternator diodes and charge the battery. Now that we have established that the alternator will work, we can talk about how much more efficient The three wire alternator setup is.
The brown wire will excite the alternator internal regulator at idle speed and control the field voltage a lot better than relying on just the alternator fields to do it. The sensing wire to the S terminal will allow the regulator to control the field in the alternator to allow for greater output in case of a voltage drop down line from the back of the alternator. If you don't use the sensing wire then you'll just get field voltage based on the output of the alternator at the BAT post on the alternator. This is the same as looping the S wire to the large post on the back of the alternator like a lot of conversions direct us to do.
Now if you want to keep the harness reversible then all you'll need to do is follow the directions in the first few posts of this thread or follow the directions in the diagram below. It involves jumping the wires in the plug for the stock external regulator. The brown wire jumps to the white wire which goes to the L terminal on the CS alternator. You will have to solder the aforementioned resistor in this line and connect it to the L wire that comes from the CS plug.
The next step is to jump the red wire in the plug to the blue wire and continue that on to the S terminal in the CS plug. You can solder that wire to a wire that runs from the CS plug.
All that's left is to run the large wire from the back of the alternator to the junction in the stock harness and I recommend that you replace it with an 8 gauge wire for better current carrying capacity.
You might also consider replacing the soldered junction with a relay fuse panel or a distribution block to provide circuits for additional accessories. I have posted all this before so i'm not going to be redundant here.