Quote:
Originally Posted by danheit
Ok, sorry for those last questions. I finally went out and dive in, finding that the blue and white wires don't really go to anything, so it doesn't matter how they are hooked up. I chose to leave all the stock parts in place, no wires cut. I used the jumper from brown to blue to put my resistor in line. Then jumped the red to white and just made male spade terminals on the ends of the 130cs plug and plugged them into the factory plug. Easily reversible if I ever choose to go that route. I may decide to rip half that wiring out, down the road. We shall see.
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Here is the expanded wiring that is only partially shown in the old part of this thread. There's a few things different between that one and your truck.
1. It's for a car older than 1967, a Buick I think.
2. The horn relay is used as a junction block for the battery, alternator, cab power connection.
3. The blue wire is shown as the extension of the brown wire. And it goes to the L terminal on the CS alternator.
4. There is no resistor shown in the brown/blue wire either it was left out or the poster did not realize he needed one.
5. The red wire from the old regulator is not extended by the white wire to the S terminal but is just looped back to the large alternator output red wire on the back of the alternator.This works, but it fails to utilize the voltage sensing ability of the alternator.
This is as simple as I can make it so that anyone can wire up the CS alternator in any of out trucks. Just remember that the brown wire from the firewall block goes to the L pin on the CS alternators and it needs the resistor and the Red wire from the soldered connection I posted earlier goes to the S terminal. It needs to be wired this way if the ammeter gauge is going to work. The small wires with the fuses in them are for the ammeter.
