I used the 16 pen/magnets trick. After setting motor to line up crank/cam marks (makes installing new set easier) and removing timing set, rocker arms, and p-rods (I upgraded to chro-moly)...I spun the cam I inserted a pen/extendable type magnet into each p-rod hole. Spinning the cam w/o the p-rods in place pushes the lifters up into their pockets. Some say they'll stay there.....I bought 16 pen/magnets and used...just to make sure none of the lifters dropped. Just bend out the clip on the pen magnet so it can't slip down the hole.
I don't have pics of the work in progress with the magnets tho...but this is the style
the valve spring tool I used:
I also swapped out the springs to a dual spring setup with titanium retainers. All that's needed there is the compressor hookup to fill the cylinder with air and hold the valves in place so they don't drop down.
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Kurt -
'68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy
'72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close
'06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD
'18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver
'95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto...
my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken
A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken