Next is the needle. You'll need both the S-10 and your original needles. Start by bending the four tabs up on your original needle and remove the mounting part.
Then cut the black part off the S-10 needle, and trim it up so it will fit in the original needle.
Then you'll need to epoxy the black part in the original needle. I used body filler because it sets up quick, and I had some. Mixed some up and put a little in the needle, then put the black part in it.
Then put a little more on it to cover it the rest of the way up. Make sure it's centered and straight up, you don't want it leaning at all.
Then when it started to set up, but before it was completely hardened, I took a razor blade and trimmed it flat.
Then it fell out! LOL! No problem though, a little super glue and it was good to go. I also bent the tabs back over.
Now you'll find that it's a little too long, and the needle is too far off the face. Pull it back off and trim it down a bit. I did it a little at a time with a razor blade. Don't do alot at once, since if you cut it too short, you'll have to start over.
This is a little better.
Now you can put the needle on, and make sure everythings lining up. If it's right, through the entire sweep, the needle will be right at the edge of the line on the speedo face.
Should look like this. At this point it's just down to wiring. I use sockets for the lights from the junk yard. They are the same sockets that 67-72 trucks have on the heater controls, and use the same bulbs. they ground through the base, so you only need to run the power wires to them.
As for the rest of the wiring, use your old printed circuit as a guide, it will show you what wires on the gauges need power, and which ones go to the senders. I also usually go to the junk yard and get a connector to wire into it so that you can un plug the whole cluster to remove it. If anyone has any questions on wiring just ask and I'll get back with you.