Re: Doing A Valve Job
INSIDIOUS '86 you have been awesome, you have replied to almost every single one of my posts. I know that low oil is the not the issue, but that high miles and sticking internals could be the issue. I bought the truck after a rebuild supposedly the engine was rebuilt as well, it is not. I have no idea how many miles are on it but I do know its the original motor after tracking down the shop that did the rebuild. The bent push rod is in the #5 cylinder, I was told that the push rod is bent because the valve seal is mushroomed over and causing the lifter to stick and that the lifter in the #5 cylinder is collapsed (by the mechanic and he is a great mechanic, just to expensive for my taste but anything above free makes me cringe) Logically thinking if this is the issue and is what is causing the push rod to bend, then why would I replace the push for it just to bend again? I want to solve the issue that is causing the push rod to bend. If I have to replace one valve why not replace them?
manimal I most definitely want to do the work myself. If I am going to pursue this new passion of mine I would like to know them inside and out. I even ordered a book how to rebuild your chevy small block, should be here this week, cant wait!
mopar346 I use the truck as a daily driver, but also have another little truck I can use as a daily driver if I had to keep this one in the garage for a few weekends. I have the money set aside for a GM crate 350, headers, new water pump and manifold, but because I am eager to learn I wanted to try and fix the issue at hand. If I failed well then I will purchase the new crate motor. I do not need to return the 305 as a core and planned on keeping it just to tear it apart and become familiar with the motor since the 305 and 350 arent so different. So in the future when the 350 is no longer under warranty I would feel a lot more comfortable working on and upgrading the 350.
So now that I have answered the questions, what do you guys suggest I attempt?
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