Re: rear end yoke
Maybe this chart will help you. I borrowed it from another members post. One thing to remember and I know it happens all the time is that when you remove a yoke from a pinion, you also lose the preload on the pinion bearings. The only way to make sure you have the correct preload is to replace the crush sleeve that is in between the pinion bearings. If you just hammer it on with an impact, you will not get the full life from the pinion bearings.
If it were me, I would get the correct u-joint.
U-joint conversions:
1310 to 1350
Spicer: #5-460X
Neapco: #3-3150
1330 to 1350
Spicer: #5-134X
Neapco: #1-0134
1310 to S44/3R
Spicer: #5-3022X
Neapco: #3-3130
1350 to 1410
Neapco: #11-501410
Dimensions..........................
1310: (A&B) = 3.25” (C) = 1-1/16” Special = 1-1/8”
1330: (A&B) =3 5/8” (C) = 1-1/16” Special =1 1/8”
For 1310BC & 1330BC Special, only 2 caps are 1 1/8" & other 2 caps are 1 1/16" (primarily used on Ford applications).
1350: (A&B) = 3-5/8” (C) = 1-3/16”
1410: (A&B) = 4-3/8” (C) = 1-3/16”
1480: (A&B) = 4-3/16” (C) = 1-3/8”
1550: (A&B) = 4-31/32” (C) = 1-3/8"
Attached Images
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