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Old 08-24-2013, 03:05 PM   #28
charlieatthedisco
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 42
Re: Crate engine for 78 350 CA truck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfmaster View Post
To original poster (OP)

Pull your engine out.
Have a competent machine shop go through rotating assembly.
Crank may need to be turned down if bearing surfaces are out of spec. Have block checked, bored, and squared if needed. Align hone if mains showing signs.
For 78 source new flex plate and balancer - there is no point of re-using them.
Have rods checked, new rods with performance bolts are about $130. In most cases it is not worth re-working stock rods with new bolts.
For a stock or RV style rebuild use Sealed Power H345 pistons. Cheap and will take reasonable amount of abuse.
If budget permits have machine shop balance rotating assembly - in the end you'll have smoother running engine.
In 4.030 block and 9.025 deck height with 0.038 thick head gasket with 74cc heads the resulting CR will be 8.7:1 which is fine for 87 octane E10 crap we have for gas in CA.
Have heads checked and reworked, valve job - at a minimum new exhaust valves are a must!
Get a stock or RV style camshaft that has EO number - for example SpeedPro CS-1014R or CS-1105R Emissions Legal Cam; CARB E.O. No. D-292-1; Pro-2000 Perf. Cam with matching HT817 lifters.
Use SAE 30W oil with zinc additive during break-in -absolute must for a flat tappet engine.

Make sure that you retain all smog devices - EFE valve is commonly damaged during pull, TVS screwed into intake manifold tend to break apart from years in service. Take plenty of photos, label everything, draw a system diagram how everything is connected before turning a wrench.

Clean everything - make sure that all gasket surfaces are flat and gasket residue has been removed. I keep a note book for each projects keep it organized. There is no other way for smog infested engine bays of the 70 and early 80's.

Most important - take your time to make it right.

//RF
Thanks so much for this good info. I purchased all new smog switches for smog and vacuum lines that run to the egr and everything. New EGR, etc. The next step is to pull the engine like you said and I think I will go that route. Thanks again.

Charlie
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