Quote:
Originally Posted by 62chevy302
Is this better or worse with some plates? im wondering if there is anything around this? maybe a spacer on the idler arm? I guess then the centerlink would me too short?
|
Hey 62chevy, the mere existence of fixed-dimension geometric design renders very little in the way of avoiding this "shorter turn syndrome". However, if somebody really wants to solve that [livable] problem, he can do what I did on my last '66 I put ps on.
First, it really matters not which newer year box u use--all produce quite identical interference spacing. So, to keep the full turning ability, I modified my frame where the box bolts on, keeping original drag link, tie rods, etc. [[A good gauge for the amount of spacing/interference is the thickness of an old Ford pickup lug nut--the one used for so many years & having a 1/2-inch threaded hole. Using 1 of them on each of 3 bolts will space a ps box away from the '66 frame perfectly!]] Anyway, I started with a LOT OF HEAT so as to make as much of the frame as possible into a modifiable state. Use of a solid round bar stock, about the same diameter as the bulge on the newer ps box works well to help 'form' the old frame when hit with a huge hammer.
Took several heatings and massages to create the relief needed. Next comes welding up of the unneeded holes--actually would've been better to have welded them up before the massaging! After holes were filled and ground, we determined where to drill the new holes. No shame in this next step, but we had to shim a couple of holes, as massaging was a bit too much!
When we finished grinding & cleaning up and painting, the install looked as pretty as an original.
Now! There is 1 drawback in what I did. I used the original centerlink and other front end parts--and they are NOT as beefy as the linkage I stole the ps box from. But I ended up with the same turning radius as I started with. Only YOU can decide which tradeoff you prefer.
Knowing you probably wonder if I'd do my next one this way OR use spacers with the newer box and wed the newer linkages and bl-jts and t-r-ends and idler arm. Well, I'd have to admit this one handles better than any one I've ever driven--cornering, swaying, leaning, driving straight down the road with no hands on the st. wheel, drifting, and maybe any other parameter you may suggest. It's close to PERFECT.
But! The small loss of turning radius seems to me a tiny price to pay to gain the upgraded front-end components. Once you "split the difference" between left-turn and right-turn, I'd probably vote for the beefier suspension. After driving the upgraded[yet smaller turn-radius]truck a few days, you quickly become accustomed to its limitations and compensate without thinking. PLUS, it is actually easier to use the spacer method along with the beefier components when adding the ps.
I see advantages in both. And my real preference would be...........to have 2 trucks, 1 done each way!
sam