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Old 10-17-2013, 10:03 PM   #4
BMERDOC
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
Re: Battery Relocation and Wiring

I'll give up more of what I know to keep this going. Most of what I have searched on the forum hasn't turned up much in the way of wiring. I've worked for BMW for 17 years and they have, for the most part, located the battery in the right side of the trunk. The battery is grounded right there on the chassis. The engine has its own ground. The power cable is fused at the battery. Because of this I don't think there is any need in running a remote solenoid and associated wiring to the rear. The alternator is connected to the starter using the same gauge wire (1/0?). As far as I can tell the stock C10 Alt wire was a 12g wire so a 8 gauge would be fine to run from the starter post to the alternator which would get rid of the extra wiring and junction point. Someone rewired mine so the junction isn't used anyway. That same gauge wire would then run from the alternator to the junction at the fuse box/firewall.

AWEEE DANG! Its all coming back to me now!!! I guess sometimes I just have to write things down to get this straight in my head. :/ Sometime ago I posted a thread about upgrading the alternator to a higher amperage. Vettevet directed me to this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5900769

In post 9 he suggests a junction point at which several circuits are protected by a fusible link. The only problem is that the stock wiring is fed by one 12g wire. If an 8g is used in conjunction with a bigger alternator it could overload the system and cause a melt down. I guess the proper thing to do would be to keep a protected 12g circuit to the factory stuff and run a separate fused circuit (additional fuse block) for any additional circuits that are required as the system grows. I'm still thinking...
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Nick Carter
1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside
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2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments
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