[Number 9]

You don't build a crossmember as much as you make the parts and box your frame. I wasn't trying to be harsh. I was trying to help. I gave you some information I think you need. If I were approaching building it I would leave the parts on one side of the crossmember and take the a-arm spindle assembly off the other. I would think you would have to narrow the tread width some. I'm sure you have seen the flat out upper a-arm mounts and noticed the back of the upper a-arm hole is lower then the front. The purpose of this is anti dive when you brake. If you mirror the mounting points of the a-arms and steering rack it will work. The steering rack pivot joints have to line up to the upper and lower a-arm pivot points. Akerman effect is when you turn both wheels turn and one doesn't skid. The direction you are turning the wheel is at a greater angle. This is adjusted by moving the rack forward or back. It takes a bit of doing to get it right but worth it in the end. Don't forget from the start measure and record and draw. If you have single piston calipers 15" wheels will work. I think up to 1988. After that you need bigger wheels for the dual piston calipers. Any other Questions I can help with I would be glad and try to help. I say go for it. You don't need to be ready to do it to start making parts. The lower crossmember would have the lower arm pivot point's and the motor mounts and the uppers would the upper arm plates welded to the top of the frame.