[mr48chev]

With a 235 powered truck at stock height I'd think that you might be better off just doing what needs to be done to the original front axle and suspension and swapping rear ends and going from there. The ride might not be quite as smooth as a coil spring suspension and the steering may be a bit harder but with the big stock wheel and a well greased front end in good shape and tires that aren't too wide it isn't that bad in the long run. A set of 53/54 Car drums and backing plates can be swapped pretty easily to give five lug front brakes albet with drums rather than disks.

Another option that might not be that expensive where you live is a Jag XJ 6 front suspension from an 80 something that unbolts from the Jag donor complete in one unit with disk brakes and power rack and pinion. They don't require cutting your frame except possibly for rack and pinion clearance. I've been looking into those as the Jag wheelbase at 113 inches for the Jag is a lot closer to our Chevy trucks wheelbases than the MII at 96.2 inches.

I've done a first generation Camaro clip install on my 48 in the past and drove it a lot of miles and it drove great but I had to hack the sheet metal of the front end up pretty bad to get it to fit. Second Generation (mullet Camaro) suspension is even more invasive as far as cutting the front end sheet metal goes and usually requires a new core support and different radiator. Most S-10 installs place the cab nose and bed several inches above the S-10 frame getting around some of the hacking to the sheet metal.

Quickest independent swap: The bolt on MII setup from Speedway or a couple of other vendors. Two guys with a tape measure and half inch drill and hand full of wrenches can do one in a day fairly easily and they are beyond simple. The cost of the crossmember hits the pocket a bit harder but the payoff is that it is an easy garage/driveway job and the no welding may be a plus in some areas of the US and Canada where modifications requiring welding are looked on with a bit of suspicion by the local authorities because of so many suspect welds on vehicles in the past few years.

I've said it all too many times, and that is if a guy has a good solid, square and straight original frame to start with use it and go from there as you will end up with a better truck in the long run. If you start with a truck that has no frame, a junk frame due to previous mods, rust or wrecks go with the S-10 swap.