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Old 12-11-2013, 11:39 AM   #144
Vintage Windmills
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Prior Lake, MN
Posts: 4,305
Re: 1971 K20- project just get driveable!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by glimmertwin01 View Post
Being you are up in MN. I see you got a ton of snow in the last week or so.I guess she isnt plowing much snow yet.? I feel your pain... the 68 K1500 I was hoping to use to plow with isnt any where near ready, so I will continue to use the 86 CUCV M1008 i snagged a yr ago... she plows like a beast ..and burns oil! I always find that my ..."just get it working" plans always morph into much more... My first truck is still packed away in my garage Its a 68 K20 4 speed 292 truck.
Seems to be the way things go! although i had to change the springs anyway with the heavy front plow and the eaton drums werent feasible to replace. we havent gotten hit too hard yet this year right where i am, probably 5 inches so far. north of here got dumped on!

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
A thread that may help?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...9&postcount=15

I found this picture doing a Google search, forgive the non Chevy part.
http://moparforums.com/forums/93670-post19.html

Great progress!
thanks for the links. the dodge one is installed wrong, hes got the right caliper on the left side and the bleeder on the bottom. the other thread is a good one, but he has an extra set of holes in mounting plate. i suppose i could add some to mine.

after no luck finding parking brake lever brackets, i have a new set of calipes on the way from speedway with them included. I can then mock it up agqin this weekeend and see what angle works for the park brake and drill additional holes in the plate if necessary. i hope these calipers provide enough stopping power, thinking maybe i should have just played around with a set of big ones, like off a 2001 to 2004 2500hd. course that would involve custom mounting probably.

now i need to see about retuning the other caliper set to rock auto and the shcoks to summit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher View Post
Whenever I rebuild a rear end or have the hubs off I always fill each hub with lube before installing the hub and fill the diff with lube, then jack one side of the truck way up and let the fluid fill the hub. Then I repete for the opposite side. I do this one more time with less angle after the first 2 to help make sure each hub should have the same amount in them. I used to pack the bearings but a lot of wheel bearing grease will gum up these newer type semi synthetic gear lubes and a lot of the stuff I work on require it.
good to hear another method
__________________

67 GMC K1500 Custom- 305V6 SM420, PTO, Ram Assist, yellow (the outcast) (project period correct upgrades)
67 GMC C2500 351V6 TH400, AC, PS, PB (can't decide what to do with. Update, decided to keep and will restore )
86 CHV K30 502 th400, apple red NEW
71 CHV K20 350 SM465, ochre (saved work truck)
71 CHV K20 292 SM465, white, tach, PTO, (future project)
72 CHV K20 350 350th, medium blue (project stocker)
01 CHV K2500hd crew, indigo blue

^3 dont run and the others don't see winter either
'86 K30 Cummins "Fireside" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649649
'71 K20 "get driveable" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590642
'72 K20 Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=493477&page=6
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