[jbgroby]

Zip,

Ok, since I was at the same confused issue with my new halogen wiring relay harness, I decided to do a short tutorial for others like me - lack of experience.

First, buying the harness for $30.00 is cheap compared to the waste of time and cost of material needed. I'm glad for those who can build these assemblies, but for me buying the harness was just easier.

So as not to mislead, I also started with a new E-Z wiring 21 Circuit Harness.
The wires that go through the firewall to the headlight assemble are tan and green and are easily marked.

Each wire is split (left/right low beam and left/right high beam and have NO connectors on them. E-Z wire gives you two of them; you will use one during this assembly.

Picture 1 Turn your headlight assembly over and lay out you NEW Halogen relay wiring harness, you need to remember that the two red wires with BATTERY on them have to mount next to your battery location, so lay it out accordingly (please note in my picture I did it backward at first – THAT’S how I know!). Each side of the new relay harness has a black ground wire for each set of lights, make sure you have a great connection; I used a Dremel Tool sanding drum to remove paint and primer to have a direct metal to metal connection.

Plug the pre-wired harness sockets into the proper bulbs. Route your harness toward the top of your assembly and use plastic wire ties to hold in place. They should have several factory holes along the top of the headlight assembly for this purpose). When you finished getting it in place and wired tied down, you will have 2 relays, 1 male 3 prong connection and 2 red battery wire leads of the harness hanging loose.

Ok with the help of someone, carry the assembly to the front of your truck; bring the relays and red pigtail forward over the front of the assembly. Making sure not to pinch or catch them in the mounting your headlight assembly on the front of your truck. Picture 2

Work the relays, 3 prong male connector and red wires into what position you want or need. I mounted the relays on the front side of the radiator support where I could reach them (They are hidden by the radiator cowl covers)
Ok, once that is finished high five something or someone, drink a glass of your favorite beverage and let’s start on the tie into the wiring harness.
OK, the wires that will normally go directly to your factory headlight hardness (green and tan in my harness) will need to go through the radiator support grommet (may have several feet of these wires). Each single wire is split (left/right low beam and left/right high beam and have NO connectors on them. E-Z wire gives you two connectors already made into pigtails with the harness; you will use one during this assembly.

Once you feed the green and tan wire through the radiator support you will need to connect the loose wires into a female socket to them connect directly into the new relay assembly. I used the pre-wired female connector and cut and soldered that into the wires coming from firewall. Picture 4

You will have a black wire to serve as ground for the assembly. I mounted this with a self-taping screw to the radiator support as well. I have learned NOT to use the insulated butt connectors I prefer to strip and solder as well as heat shrink my connections. I find you have a better connection and (you see this as well). Takes just a few minutes longer but it will serve you well.
Once you have attached your pigtail to the OEM wiring harness, simply plug it into the new assembly and you should be ready to go and connect the new relay harness to your battery. Picture 5 and Picture 6

I hope this helps someone as I ended up calling my brother who gave me more help than the Seller of the assembly.

Any thoughts or IF someone can make this any clearer, you have my permission to do so. – Pay me with a cigar!