Ordered Cyro treated and slotted Stoptech's from Tire Rack but there's a 3-4 week wait before they'll be in stock. I like the look of slotted and drilled but drilled rotors will crack if they're used hard so that wouldn't work. OEM Caddy rotors were the same price but they have to be replaced every pad change, wasn't too thrilled about that. Stoptech has matching rear rotors available, and they should be more durable than oem parts. Also have to get the hubs fitted with 1/2" wheel studs and probably open up the rotors to fit the bigger studs too. Nothing on the front brakes are going to be out of the box parts at this point.
I hate that I'm not making any progress with the A-arms but I have been researching master cylinder bore sizes vs caliper piston area, pedal ratio, and pedal pressure vs pedal travel. I don't want a soft pedal; I can't stand getting in newer cars that stop with pedal travel instead of pedal pressure. Theres no pedal feel or feedback that way. I'll need to heel-toe downshift so a floppy/soft pedal won't let me keep steady pressure on the brakes while tipping the gas pedal with the same foot. Lots to consider to get it balanced front to back with a firm pedal but enough leverage with the bore size and pedal ratio to fully lock up the brakes without needing body-builder legs. I'm thinking that a good place to start is to measure how much pedal effort (in pounds) I'm comfortable with and see how much line pressure the calipers need to function properly. Been looking into Wilwood hanging pedal assemblies with triple master cylinders and an adjustable brake bias bar to tune the front/rear balance. Might be a tight fit to get it all under the dash.
