Quote:
Originally Posted by blazercrazy70
I'm trying to decide if want go with a new engine with dbw instead the of cable. Wondering is it a pain to deal with or is the pedal setup the only extra thing to deal with. If I understand correctly you.can use the factory pedal just retrofit it. Looking for some input here.
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There is no reason NOT to go DBW these days. Aside from the fact that 95% of engines are now being made that way, it has some unique advantages that a linkage or cable op pedal wouldn't have (or not have easily).
With DBW, there is no linkage or metal cable to run, so the placement of the pedal itself isn't limited by those factors. You can also modify the DBW pedal bracket, arm, or pedal itself...as well as combining them with existing parts or aftermarket parts.
As an example; I have a custom arm on my dbw pedal assembly, made from a shotgun barrel. We used the dbw pedal, with that custom arm, mounted to a modified bracket...the flipside to that, some folks will use the o.e. floor-hinged pedal, and retrofit it onto the modern assembly.
If you poke around in the builds or get creative with some search terms in this section, you can see all the ways its been done. The DBW can be made to fit pretty much any swap.
The other benefit is from the programming. Because it uses a sensor (I can't remember if its actually a rheostat or a potentiometer...in some cases its a pair of them), the signal can be manipulated in the tune to suit your needs.
Some folks with very aggressive motors will dial-back the pedal response at low speed/low rpm, to "tame" high hp cars that can be twitchy. You could also reduce the entire length of the travel/sweep, to make up for changes in the pedal arm length. Some t-bucket type swaps with 0 room will even shorten the whole sweep so the entire pedal travel is only an inch or so, allowing them more usable foot space.
In terms of setting it up; Gen III engines started dbw in 2003 (there are early oddballs, as it also depends what the source vehicle was), with the majority of them being setup that way by late 2004 and after.
They require all the dbw components to be from a matching vehicle, or as similar of a vehicle as possible. If you have a 2004 motor (its the TB that actually matters), then you also want to have a 2004 TAC module, and a 2004 Pedal assembly. The ECM should be from the same year or as close as possible...since you already want to find a v8/auto ECM just to DO the swap, this should fall into place pretty easily. In case you are sourcing the ECM seperately, its best to try and find one matching the above criteria, and having been from a DBW vehicle.
That all sounds like a pain but it really isn't. Buying all the DBW parts together saves most of the hassle, especially if you can buy them WITH the motor. The most wiggle room is in the ECM, and its also the most likely to be sourced seperately.
GenIV engines do not use a TAC module, only a TB (on engine) pedal assembly and the ECM. All GenIV engine are dbw, so it should be pretty simple to find a matching set.