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Old 07-29-2014, 03:08 PM   #8
magwakeenercew2jh
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
 
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
Re: Electric Fuel Pump Choice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fitz View Post
Your street Demon is similar to the Holley 850 CFM 4150 on my big block. It will "pop" when coming off the secondaries if the rear float is not set right in the middle of it's range.
Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
If you're getting little 'pops' what's your timing curve like?
Thanks, Guys.

The popping...and very slight at that, was when coming *on* to the secondaries, mostly when the trans kicked down and a
couple of seconds after the higher RPM had been achieved.

Because of not having a proper calibration on the timing mark, and TDC being elusive because I don't feel really EXACT about
TDC, even usinbg all the methods, I have adjusted the timing for optimum performance...meaning no advance symptoms, and
no lean symptoms...rather than call it from certain degrees BDC. When the heads come off, I'll mark it properly.

Also, as far as the curve goes, I just installed a new module in the HEI dizzy and didn't play with springs.

I've got some playing around there...And with the idle mixtures on the DeMon. Plus, I need to get in there and look pretty
diligently for some air leaks...just in case there are some. I suspect not. But who really knows.

Also, it seems that popping now...since I've been driving some more...may have been symptomatic of a cold motor. Jumping
on it before it's fully up to operating temp.

Side note: Vintage Air. Just got off the phone with Mark at CVintage Air. I was having strange (to me) problems with the readings
on high and low side being okay...yet, when the RPM were over about 1,000, the temp in the cab started north...With ambient in the
cab temps at 88-100, all the way up to 77 degrees if I let it get that far. Back on idle, the temp would start to drop and settle at about
44 degrees until I was driving again at road-ride RPMs.

Mark asked for the readings at the a/c gauges. Then, when I got back to him, suggested taking the heater core out of the equation,
as there is a possibility that if even slight amounts of hot water got into the cooling side of the evaporator, the system would get mad
....and not cool down.

I messed with the VA hot water "gate" on the heater hose. It moved. I have the GenII system that has cables. It moved. Seems I had
the cable fubared to the point that just a very small amount of hot water was getting through to the heater core.

With Mark's sourcing of the problem, I'm now down to a system output of a consistent 38 degrees.

Vintage air service after the sale. I'm a fan.
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Coarsegold, CA
RAT's shiny now.
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