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Can you be more specific on the rust problems? From the last picture, it looks like a $750-800 truck, but that's assuming that the floorpan, cab corners, and cab struts are all in relatively good shape (rockers are a "gimme"). The later model bed doesn't help your effort much, IMHO. In fact, depending on the buyer, it might actually detract from the value.
In general, I see it this way... any truck that runs well is worth $1000. I'll subtract a little (say $100) for a 6 cylinder. I'll subtract a little less for a 307 (say $50). I'll add (maybe $200) for a big block. I'll add for options such as A/C or power steering. I'll subtract for rust. You get the idea. That's just my personal system and it's generally held up well over the years.
Take my 68 CST for example. Here's a guesstimate of what I'd consider fair market value:
$1000 for the truck (baseline)
+$100 for the CST package
+$100 for factory A/C
+$150 for the TH400
+$250 for strong 350 small block
+$100 for the 3.73 Positrac
+$25 for power steering
+$250 for originality (one owner)
-$500 for rust
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$1475 total
Now, I paid $1,100 for the truck, paid $700 for the engine, and I've got about $1,100 in wheels and incidental parts. In other words, I've got about $2,900 invested in the truck or nearly double what it's probably worth.
Needless to say, I can't sell the truck for what I've got in it, but I wouldn't let it go for my fair market value, either. If I were in the market to sell my truck and I wasn't in a hurry, I'd split the difference to $2,200. Odds are good that somebody's willing to pay that for it.
Hopefully, this will give you some help. Like I said, this is just a personal system and it serves me well. Good luck with your sale!
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