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cerial · 11-28-2014, 03:45 AM

I love sm465's they are tough, simple, and cheap. They are not a racing transmission. in any regard. Never confuse that you will be able to keep up with your current th350 shifting with a sm465. It is a top loading rock crusher and is meant to be shifted slow.

A few things to add to your shopping list that you can get easily from someone parting out a manual Chevy with a sm465 that is the same length as your truck.

Cross member (c10)
Bell
Shifter boot (measure the parts truck floor once out to know exactly where to cut)
Dust cover
Drive shaft(s)
Carrier bearing/cross member(if long bed)

Things you should get new that you did not list
Bell boot
Trans mount
Clutch (kit)
Flywheel
Bolts
Carrier bearing(if needed)
Alignment pins(the Lakewood adjustable ones are nice)
Caliper with a magnetic base you can put on the flywheel and align the bell
U joints

While you have it out do a bench rebuild, the shifter fix, and you will be golden. It is quite basic. But if you don't feel like it most people are willing to do a bench rebuild and do the shifter fix for around $350.

Some guys like hydro clutches I prefer the manual one I have right now. The pedal is going to be the hardest part of the install. I have a few aluminum bells laying around. But if you are going to make power over 550lbs I highly suggest a Lakewood bell.

I bought one on ebay for $250 with the block plate, opened it up for another $50 and have it on a 68 Caddy 472 right now. I am going to use the good old aluminum one on a 72 Buick 455 going in during the spring and it should hold long enough for me to build the 472 into something nuts that will require the Lakewood bell and hydro clutch.

With the 4.56 gears I have now and a little 383 putting out 350ish lbs I am able to start my c30 off in 2nd get up to 15 then drop into 3rd and cruise from 3rd up to 40 then shift into 4th. As long as the truck is rolling I can usually just go back and forth from 3rd to 4th driving around and the gap between 2nd to 3rd is never a issue.

Your gearing, weight of the truck, torque, and how you drive will determine when/if you feel you need to go into 2nd or not. 1st gear is great for warming up the tires, pulling stuff up hills, letting the truck idle/pull itself through parking lots, and that's about it.

11-28-2014, 03:45 AM	#2
cerial Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Ionia, MI Posts: 199	Re: Turbo 350 to sm465 ?? I love sm465's they are tough, simple, and cheap. They are not a racing transmission. in any regard. Never confuse that you will be able to keep up with your current th350 shifting with a sm465. It is a top loading rock crusher and is meant to be shifted slow. A few things to add to your shopping list that you can get easily from someone parting out a manual Chevy with a sm465 that is the same length as your truck. Cross member (c10) Bell Shifter boot (measure the parts truck floor once out to know exactly where to cut) Dust cover Drive shaft(s) Carrier bearing/cross member(if long bed) Things you should get new that you did not list Bell boot Trans mount Clutch (kit) Flywheel Bolts Carrier bearing(if needed) Alignment pins(the Lakewood adjustable ones are nice) Caliper with a magnetic base you can put on the flywheel and align the bell U joints While you have it out do a bench rebuild, the shifter fix, and you will be golden. It is quite basic. But if you don't feel like it most people are willing to do a bench rebuild and do the shifter fix for around $350. Some guys like hydro clutches I prefer the manual one I have right now. The pedal is going to be the hardest part of the install. I have a few aluminum bells laying around. But if you are going to make power over 550lbs I highly suggest a Lakewood bell. I bought one on ebay for $250 with the block plate, opened it up for another $50 and have it on a 68 Caddy 472 right now. I am going to use the good old aluminum one on a 72 Buick 455 going in during the spring and it should hold long enough for me to build the 472 into something nuts that will require the Lakewood bell and hydro clutch. With the 4.56 gears I have now and a little 383 putting out 350ish lbs I am able to start my c30 off in 2nd get up to 15 then drop into 3rd and cruise from 3rd up to 40 then shift into 4th. As long as the truck is rolling I can usually just go back and forth from 3rd to 4th driving around and the gap between 2nd to 3rd is never a issue. Your gearing, weight of the truck, torque, and how you drive will determine when/if you feel you need to go into 2nd or not. 1st gear is great for warming up the tires, pulling stuff up hills, letting the truck idle/pull itself through parking lots, and that's about it.