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luvbowties · 02-15-2015, 07:43 AM

Assuming new holes must be drilled, I would do the following. With help from an extra pair of hands, you can use c-clamps and use trial-and-error to temporarily hold it in different positions until you get the drag link eyeballed as to vertical distance it "runs" along, above, below the cross member; also this eyeballing should align the drag link (importantly) parallel to the cross member. Once these parameters look good, you can c-clamp the idler arm securely and either drill thru its mounting holes or use a set of center-finders-for-holes to center-punch the holes for drilling into cross member once idler arm has been moved out of the way. I PREFER DRILLING THRU THE IDLER'S HOLES, USING A SMALL DRILL-MOTOR WHOSE CHUCK WILL ACCOMMODATE THE DRILL BIT SIZES NEEDED. A slightly-off drilling thru your punched center should be eliminated this way.

It's been so long since I've done one, I'd suggest to check for sure if new holes must be drilled when using the 3 matching-year components: cross member, draglink, and idler arm.

HTH,
Sam

02-15-2015, 07:43 AM	#2
luvbowties Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: southeasternfoothillsofusa Posts: 1,557	Re: Idler Arm Bracket Upgrade Template Assuming new holes must be drilled, I would do the following. With help from an extra pair of hands, you can use c-clamps and use trial-and-error to temporarily hold it in different positions until you get the drag link eyeballed as to vertical distance it "runs" along, above, below the cross member; also this eyeballing should align the drag link (importantly) parallel to the cross member. Once these parameters look good, you can c-clamp the idler arm securely and either drill thru its mounting holes or use a set of center-finders-for-holes to center-punch the holes for drilling into cross member once idler arm has been moved out of the way. I PREFER DRILLING THRU THE IDLER'S HOLES, USING A SMALL DRILL-MOTOR WHOSE CHUCK WILL ACCOMMODATE THE DRILL BIT SIZES NEEDED. A slightly-off drilling thru your punched center should be eliminated this way. It's been so long since I've done one, I'd suggest to check for sure if new holes must be drilled when using the 3 matching-year components: cross member, draglink, and idler arm. HTH, Sam Last edited by luvbowties; 02-15-2015 at 07:50 AM. Reason: added note; sp.