[mr48chev]

It doesn't work that way. You can't go on how many shims someone else has in their rig because everyone is a bit different even though they came down the assembly line one behind the other.

You have to factor in what kind of driving was done in the donor, what engine had if it ever hit anything including a big pothole or curb along with general wear.

A good starter setting for most roads would be 1/2 + camber in the drivers side wheel 1/4+ camber in the passenger side wheel and 3 degrees + caster in both wheels with 1/8" Toe in . From there it gets fine tuned to drive straight down the road and return to center after a turn. Usually 1/4 more + camber in the left wheel than the right will compensate for the crown in most American roads so the truck or car drives straight down the road. The negative camber that some Ricky Racers call for is great for Autocross but will usually eat up the inside tread of spendy tires rather quickly in road driving.

I did a ton of alignments over the years that I worked as a front end man in both tire stores and dealerships and while you can pretty well expect certain models to react the same as others of the same model when you install or remove a certain thickness shim there is no set starting place that matches what others did.

If you don't have a caster/camber gauge you are pretty much peeing into the wind and hoping to not get your pants wet anyhow when it comes to guess and by golly home alignment settings.

What I would do if I were going to drive it to the front end shop rather than trailer it is put about 3/8 inches of shims on each bolt and take a level and get the tires to stand up straight at static height by changing shims around. That would be 0 camber. Then set the toe in at 1/8 inch and you can drive it to the front end shop without grinding the new tires off because it is so far out of alignment.