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Old 06-11-2015, 12:45 AM   #71
Corts60
Just here to tinker
 
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 3,698
Re: In memory of Tom Bowlin: the little green truck build

Quote:
Originally Posted by y5mgisi View Post
I have some questions for you if you don't mind.

What tools and grit of paper did you use to sand the body with?

What type of primer did you lay down? Was it a kind that can go over metal and paint?

What approach (if any) are you taking to painting the door jambs? Are you going to mask them off? Paint them later? Etc.

What line of paint are you using and where are you getting it from?

Thanks for any answers! I'm going to be starting painting my crew cab after the 4th of July and will be taking a similar approach to what you seem to have done. One where you aren't striving for "perfection", but set out to have a nice looking driver. Something you can be proud of, without being worried about every little thing.
No worries bud.

I used 120 grit on a 6" pneumatic DA to get the rough spots. I removed the decals on the bed before any sanding. I'm not doing door jambs at all. They are masked at the door seal to prevent dust in cab and unwanted overspray.

Then I used 220 grit all over again. I did the corners and contours by hand.

We sprayed a marine grade epoxy primer today. Not sure the brand but I'll find out if you want.

Next I'm going to fill nickel dents with a skim coat of polyester filler. Then re-sand everything again to 400, flat surfaces with a DA but probably 80% by hand. After that I'll do a final sand of 600 because we are using a metallic base/clear paint and any little imperfection will show up proud.

And, you're right, this is not the quality of an expensive paint job and I don't want that quality. I want to look good and feel relaxed. best of both worlds.
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