[BrokenAxle]

Jurassic1 - The axle broke about 2/3 of the way into the axle tube. It is 1 /2 or 2 feet deep in there.

57TaskForce - I don't want to go through the trouble of welding new perches or shock mounts on a different rear end. And the 1000 number is what I have been told a couple of times for other differentials I had trouble with. Maybe the guy is expensive, but he is the only specifically differential guy in the area.

KWmech - I don't know what a power lock looks like. There was a "limited slip" tag on the cover. I am thinking you are right because the stub just would not come out. I tried to remove the carrier by prying on it a little. It did not want to come out and I was concerned if I put too much force on it something would get damaged, so I just put the bearing caps back on and put the rear end back in the truck so it could roll in case I call a tow truck.

Sklptrljay - I talked to the guy in Fremont and he thought he had a replacement. I could not make up my mind if I wanted to take a chance on a used rear end that might not work. If they would install the rearend that would be something that might be worth trying. I will contact him again to see if they would install the replacement for me.

jeffahart - I want to avoid welding of perches etc. I just want a straight bolt in. And there is no way I am going to switch multiple differentials in and out to get a good one! I was totally beat for a day or two after removing this one.

swamp rat - I am not qualified to rebuild a differential.

DillonMC - No C clips. I pulled the axle on the other side right out because I thought the stub could be hammered out from that side. But there is something in the differential blocking the way.

specialK - I am glad to read what you had to say. I had always heard Dana 60's were extremely tough. What broke the axle was dropping it into gear at about 2000 or 2500 rpms with a small block multiple times. That didn't seem like much to me. It is just a small block with headers, manifold and Edelbrock carb. The axle is destroyed so badly that it partially split and the split part sticks out far enough to contact the side of the axle tube. It is hard to see down in there but it looks like the split is maybe 6 inches long. It looks sort of peeled off like an apple peel.

To everyone - I live in a neighborhood that does not appreciate cars up on jackstands so I went ahead and put the differential back in the truck before someone calls the city on me. I am going to contact the guy in Fremont that
Sklptrljay mentioned and see about them installing a working replacement.

If KWmech is still around, or somebody else with similar knowledge, is it OK to stick a prybar in the case to pry and/or hammer the centersection out? And if that was done, do you believe it will come out with the broken axle still stuck in it? I thought that if I could break the center section free and pulled on it that it would only come out a few inches and then the length of axle stuck in it would bind between the side of the axle tube on the far end of the stub and the inner end of the axle tube where it meets the center section.

I just measured the good axle which is 34 1/2 inches and the broken axle which is 21 1/2 inches. So there is a 13 inch piece of axle sticking out of the center section down into the axle tube. If the axle tube is only 2 or so inches in diameter, it does not seem like there would be enough freeplay to pull 13 inches of axle stuck to the center section out of the tube without it binding.