Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyCriswell
I would not mind having the anmeter workable and using the volt meter. To be honest, I don't even see inline fuses on any of my wires.
PO or PPO removed terminal block on passenger side. I am seriously contemplating getting two terminal blocks and mounting one to each side to get everything wired properly. I wanted to get this done quickly but I want it done right too. My truck has not been started in over a week.
What wire do people typically add the diode to to eliminate current being pulled back out of the battery?
Finally, what gauge wire is recommended for this wiring?
And what type of diode is recommended. Are they all the same size/rating?
Jimmy Criswell
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I'm sorry I have been trying to get back to you on the forum but my circumstances have not allowed it.
until today. I will work with you here and in PMs but check your thread in this truck forum for pictures and diagrams.
The junction you need depends on the no. of circuits you want to run and you can always use sub junctions fed by the battery power wires.
If you have decided to use the ammeter in the stock gauge cluster for authenticity, or for restoration purposes, or just cause you want to, like me, then we'll need to run 18 gauge wires from the positive battery junction terminal on the right fender, which you don't have, all the way through the firewall block by the master cylinder into the cab and to the cluster plug to terminal 12 on the plug. If you are converting to a three gauge cluster to a seven gauge you'll have to move some of the wires around. I'll get into that more in the other forum.
The other wire that will go to the ammeter is also an 18 gauge black wire that will run from the alternator, battery, cab feed and alternator sensing wire junction. these two wires will need to be fused to protect the ammeter gauge internal circuits, by a minimum 4 amp fuse in each wire. The wires will need to be identified to avoid mixing them up, because the wires have to go on the cluster plug correctly. Otherwise the ammeter will read backwards.
If you use a 12 SI alternator from a mid to late eighties vehicle. you can use a 16 gauge tan or brown wire to the no. 1 terminal and a 12 gauge sensing wire for the no. 2 terminal on the alternator I would use a 10 gauge wire for the alternator feed wire to the main junction block. You should refer to my diagrams in this forum for reference. I can't post them in PMs
The wire that you use for the battery to the junction is a 12 gauge wire that normally runs across the top of the radiator and it is called the SHUNT because it shunts power back and forth between the battery and the alternator to charge the battery and to supply power to the main junction, for off engine power, or in case the alternator stops working. It is strictly battery power when that happens, so it will drain the battery fairly quickly.
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VetteVet