[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Breadfather

i haven't tried the c clamp thing as the pin does not move no matter what is going on with the valve, which is making wonder about the functionality of the valve.

I get plenty of fluid in the rear line to the valve. I cannot get it to come out of the back section of the valve. Even after I have just re installed the freshly centered valve. That is again making me think valve issue. I blew air through the rear line starting at the 9/16 line that runs from the valve, air went through no problem pushing old brake fluid with it, so I don't think the rear rubber line is the issue. I cannot get the nut that connect to the rear rubber line loose without ruining the line(already rounded the nut) so that is when I did the air test.

I adjusted the e brake cable after doing the brakes and it does work. Right now the wheel cylinders will not even move as a result of the lack of pressure in the lines.

I think I will be wasting my time trying to vacuum the fluid through the again freshly re entered valve starting from the drivers rear bleeder, but I figure I would try before spending the $70 on the new valve.

That pretty much narrows it down.

If the light goes out then the metering portion of the combination valve is moving. The proportioning piston may be stuck.
You can disassemble it and try to free up the valve with some denatured alcohol before putting down $70 on a replacement.