Quote:
Originally Posted by Breadfather
I'll pick some up and soak that thing in there for a while to see if that helps.
If that or the DIY vacuum bleed doesn't work, I'm getting a new valve.
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Okay, tonight I pulled the combo valve and disassembled it and soaked it in de natured alcohol for a while. That didn't help, still no fluid through the rear section of the valve. Convince that the valve is the issue, I cut the red plastic metering or proportioning stem out of the rear section of the valve. The thought was I would be replacing the valve anyways I might as well see if I can get fluid to the rear while I wait for the new valve. I was able to get fluid to the rear brakes finally. After many headaches of getting all the air out of the lines, with the wife pumping and me bleeding I finally had a zero bubbles at the rear brakes. Everything else was bled as well. I noticed when we were bleeding the rears that the flow was still not that strong but better than before.
Once all the air was out, I started the truck up and put it in drive(on Jack stands with no rear wheels) and I still could not get the rear brakes to stop the axels. I figured if anything, they would lock up easy with the combo valve gutted. They did slow down more than before but would not stop, could this be the valve causing this because of my doctoring? Is it possible that the rear rubber hose could be causing this issue? I blew air through the rear lines and verified there is no blockage, but could this be the swelling I've heard about? I am 99% sure that the rear drums are adjusted properly as they are hard to spin and I can hear the shoes drag a bit on the drums as well.
New master, new rear steel lines, new rear everything in the drums.