Re: Friggen Brake bleeding problem - Vacuum time?
on my 86c20 i have played hell with the brakes every time. what i have learned in the 9+ years. 1.when you change front calipers change front lines too. they are made cheep and you have to bleed it anyway. 2. air air air. it can take some time for the master to push the air to the rear. i have found that a grav bleed for a few hourse can save days of bleeding and your leg form pumping. 3. if the rear is not getting fluid first is check where the main line meets the rubber line if you have fluid there its the rubber if not its the prop vavle. 4. and this is the biggest one there is at lest on my pos.
ADJUSTMENT. it has to be spot on. i have done the turn tire and turn up till they just tuch its not enough its more till they drag bleed and back down. if using a adjust ment tool that goes over the shoes. to fit it to the drum norm it is really close. 5. ebrake. adjust the thing after you adjust the shoes then bleed. you would not think it would make a diff but for some reason it does.
disclamer. this is in no way the right way to do this nor the only way. nor does it aply to all the trucks just what seems to work on my rust bucket lol
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1986 c20 "the hillbilly" 350 sm465 3.42gears 21mpg at 70mph
1985 k30 "the ice cream truck from hell" no rust az truck
197-8??? c30 "ramp truck" 454
1978 monte carlo 350 350th with 2.73 gears. no rust. sc car
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