Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
Please do not allow yourself to be baited by trolls. This will only result in an infraction for you as well as them once things escalate to a pissin contest..
I will say that I would have answered you differently had you stated what your intentions were. Since you aren't just cutting a 73-87 from SWB to LWB none of the articles in FAQ will give you the dimensions you need. What it will show you is the preferred method of cutting and splicing a frame.
Some feel a straight cut or angle cut is adequate. I personally prefer the additional work area created by a step notch style splice. That would be further strengthened by a backing plate that is plug welded through holes as well as perimeter welded too.
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I agree on that.
The slash or straight cuts are probably OK but they've always given me the willies.
The elongated step cut gives you more work area and it's easier to align.
Nothing will be as good as an unmolested frame... but it's harder to overload a short box and shorties are generally not used as work trucks or heavy towing trucks. In theory the stress should be limited.
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1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD
1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD
1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD
1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD
1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD
1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD
2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500
2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263
2009 Impala SS LS4 V8
RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.