Quote:
Originally Posted by steveo3318
First thing is check for vacuum leaks. Mine done this and it was because I left the brake booster line off. If the truck is idling was to high then coming down slow try the last two parameters. Fitech generally sets these up for automatics.
Here's how to set your idle correctly. On the main screen that displays all parameters go down until you see IAC STEPS. with the truck fully warm you want to see this number between 5 and 10. This is directly affected by the idle screw. Very small turns makes big changes on this end it can be done while running. Once it's set let it idle a few minutes and watch it. Kill it for 30 seconds and restart. Watch it. It's learning. Adjust your idle screw and keep checking IAC STEPS until you are between 5-10. Make sure NO VACUUM ADVANCE IS HOOKED UP WHAT SO EVER. Are you using the unit to control your timing? If not make sure that's set to TACH. This will cause it to float. Make sure your fan 1 is turned off if not using a fan. Try this and report back. Your going through an extremely similar case I had. Just stay calm and it can be tuned out!
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I did a preliminary check for vac leaks but didn't see anything obvious. No power brakes, no vac advance.... Just the PCV return to the manifold. I do have a 6-spd so yeah, if it is set for automatic, that could be the cause of some of the behaviors I am not liking.
That's a pretty in-depth idle setting procedure. The FITech stuff I read said "set your idle with the idle screw, then shut your engine off to allow the ECU to relearn it." Where are you getting all this information from?
I appreciate the help. I'm pretty happy over the huge jump in performance on the first test drive, I just wish there was more information like this easily available from FITech.
Thanks- I'll keep you posted when I can get back on this thing late this week.