OK, I bought a '93 T-56 locally on craigslist. I think I paid $1,200 or 1,300 including the bellhousing. I think it was a 93, it might have been later, but it was luckily a good one- avoid the earlier ones according to Tick, they are considerably weaker and won't take the same upgrades.
Had Tick Performance do their level 2 build. (I added more upgrades to the base build and they told me it'll take abuse from 700RWTQ easy all day long)
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/
Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild is the perfect choice for 93-02 Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am owners making 600RWTQ or less and needing a little more strength than our Level One offers you!
This complete price includes Parts, Labor AND Free Shipping on your T56 (both ways!)
Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild includes the following:
•Complete tear down, degrease & thorough inspection of entire transmission
•Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
•OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
•Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
•New OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
•Complete Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Ring Set
•New Front Seal
•New Rear Seal
•Cryogenic Treatment of All Transmission Internals
•End-play set to our custom specifications
•Professional Reassembly done 100% by hand
•One Year, Unlimited Mileage Warranty (details below)
The rebuild, upgrades (viper second gear) plus some other parts (from normal wear) I needed cost somewhere around $3K. I spent way more than I planned but wanted it done right so I didn't have to plan on doing it again in a couple years.
I got a front shift conversion kit from SST. PN T56FSA for $414.95 shipped. (Tick installed it for me during the rebuild). This puts the shifter up where you see it in my pics. In front of the bench seat instead of in the middle of it.
I got a 6.5" short shifter off of ebay "Black 6.5" short shifter stick 1993-2002 Camaro Z28" to use as the base for my new shifter. $25.53 (I welded my four speed shifter stick to this base to fit the T-56)
I got a Camaro clutch slave cylinder from O'Reillys. This one has an aluminum housing while most others are plastic. If you get one, make sure it is aluminum. They kept sending plastic ones under the same PN until we found the right one. PN CS2227 $34.20
I had to get an "84-97 Chevy T-5, T56 Hydraulic Clutch Line Fitting, AN-4, 5&6 speed swap" ebay item 130992050230 for $4.99 to convert the goofy GM pinned hydraulic line fitting to an AN-04 at the slave cylinder.
I also bought an AN-04 braided line that goes between the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, not seeing the receipt here in my pile so will have to find it.
I called Tick and asked what clutch master cylinder to use (everything has to match or the hydraulics won't work- it'll be too stiff, too soft, not enough travel etc). They recommended (and I bought) a wildwood from summit PN WIL-260-3374 for $69.93. My clutch pedal is stiff without being too hard with good even actuation.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-3374
You'll have to convert your clutch pedal from the factory hard linkage to work the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch. I mounted my wildwood in line (well, slightly offset) with the clutch pedal in the cab, drilled a hole in the pedal arm and had to use threaded rod, heim joints, etc. to make a pushrod. There will be a bit of playing around to get the throw right. With my clutch the master cylinder will over travel the clutch pressure plate and the fingers will make contact and make noise (google it, its common with the swap). You can either get used to it and you'll know where to stop the travel like many do or do what I did and installed a spacer to shorten the clutch pedal throw on the pushrod. That way if it is at an exhaust shop or garage for something, or my wife or buddy drives it, they can just work the clutch normally instead of having to be coached on how to do it so they don't damage anything.
I used a CPP crossmember PN CLP-CP9424 bought from summit for $78.97
I used a performance suspension transmission mount (have to find the PN).
I got a single disc conversion flywheel and clutch set from Ram Clutches.
http://www.ramclutches.com/tremec.html
My conversion kit came with an aluminum flywheel, which I was skeptical about since my engine is built more for top end, but it seems to rev really quick with the EFI setup which is awesome. Call the vendor you choose directly and get your PN's. I went by this chart, which seems pretty straight forward and found it didn't work with my external slave clutch setup. Can't find the receipt but I believe the cost was $1,600-1,700 for the conversion set. Not cheap.
I used an original four speed truck shifter and trim plate (bought here on the board). I had a hard time finding a boot that would work and the repop stuff is junk (I tried several but didn't like any of them). I ended up getting a boot from a kenworth application that I was able to cut to fit very nicely. And of course I had to buy a high hump here off the board and then a new carpet kit.
I think getting my driveshaft shortened and rebalanced was somewhere between $100 and $200 here locally. I had to change my 3OTT steering column to a floor shift column which you of course won't have to do. When I did the column I completely rebuild it with all new bearings and wear parts. Since I had a 3.07 rear end, the six speed geared my truck for Talledega/Bonneville so I installed the 4.56 eaton posi setup (around $1,000, parts and labor).
I still need to get dust/flywheel cover for the bellhousing, the switch so I can wire up my reverse lights and figure out what to do about my speedometer. I use a phone app or GPS but want to get my odometer working since I am OCD about maintenance.
Let me know what else you need....